Clean It Up
UK Window Cleaning Forum => Window Cleaning Forum => Topic started by: DaveG on July 08, 2014, 08:07:43 am
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Morning guys. Where's the cheapest place to get Protectakote and how much will I need for Peugeot Partner?
Cheers
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2L would be enough really. Cheapest i found was cleaningspot.co.uk
May be cheaper elsewhere.
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This may help........................................................
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I painted my van floor. Its not really a guide on how do it. More of a tips and tricks section :)
OK so first clear the van out, I really mean clear it out. If you are painting up to the sides of plastic or wood. I would strip the van out like I did. The paint gets all over the place. No matter how careful you are it will go everywhere lol. Paint splatter is also present, not as bad as house rollers as the paint is quite sticky. But you will get some.
OK so the van is cleared out. Work out what to wear. You will ruin the clothes, so make sure you are not wearing anything you want to keep. You will probably get drips on shoes as well. So remember to wear old ones.
Make sure you are wearing gloves, don't bother with those latex ones, the paint will eat through them. Spend a few quid and get some nice heavy duty marigolds. Maybe even two pairs.
Next is work out where you are going to paint the van. Think about space, ventilation and the weather. If the paint get wet, it will cure funny and react. Make sure you have enough space to work around the van and it can be stood still for a few days.
Okay so you want to start painting....wrong!!! Get a heavy duty mask. This paint stinks its very fun for around 30 mins. Ow look I am high, this is great giggle giggle. Then you start to get sick and the headaches start. So get a good mask!!!!
The paint work needs to be cleaned,dry and keyed.
I basically cleaned the van out, with a brush and then got to work. The whole floor was cleaned using CIF. This is what you are told to use, and it does work. Give the van floor two good cleans. Next get some heavy duty scourer pads. Ideally ones for removing burnt on rubbish from griddles. Cost about £3 for 10 or so. Scotchbrite is good, but its easier with bigger pads.
Work on the floor for around an hour or two. Get rid of the shine, any loose rust and grease. Once the floor is done, brush the floor out or use air like I did. Next you want to clean the floor with Xylene (Xylol) and only this. Anything else could react with the protecta kote.
Once the floor is cleaned let it air dry. Mask up any areas and allow for paint splatter.
The paint needs to be mixed for a good 5 minutes. If you cheat and say 2 minutes is enough, you will find out the hard way. The paint will clump, and look a mess. Buy a drill mixer. Cost about £4 and put it into a drill. Hey presto easy work.
My advice would be to buy the acceleration liquid. It knocks off around 60% drying time! BUT if you plan to do this when its cold, it makes a big difference to time. 5 hours without it, or less than 2 with it! The price is about £2.50 per litre of paint. So not expensive!
Once the paint is mixed, pour some into a roller tray. Now its just a case of painting. Start from a corner and work towards the back of the van, making sure you can reach any bad bits with a brush as well. Do corners etc as you go along. As you do not want to walk on wet paint. I have a side loading door. So no issue for me. Do a light coat in ONE direction. Make sure its only in one direction. When you run out, remix the paint up in the tin and then pour on the roller tray.
Now roller trays can be any size, but for the love of god use a 4 inch stippled roller. Do not use a bigger one, its awkward and clumps!
Now do all the corners with a brush. DAB the brush downwards so all the hairs splay out. Get a real cheap nasty brush for this.
Once finished throw the roller sleeve out and fit a new one, they are about £1 each. Its not worth the hassle cleaning!
DO NOT THROW THE BRUSH AWAY. Let the brush dry out, when you do the second coat, the brush should be rock hard and look knackered. This is great as it will give a stippled effect and not a brushed effect!
You can use Xylene (Xylol) to thin the paint but I wouldn't. It also cleans off any spills.
Once sort of tacky dry apply the second coat in 90 degree rotation to the previous coat. This coat should cover any imperfections. The second coat will take longer to dry.
I would only do two coats in a day.
Before you start the third coat, you could apply some anti slip powder. 100 grams at £2.50 did my floor and its really is grippy!!!!
When you finished coats, check for spills, splatter etc. Clean with the Xylene (Xylol) don't leave it longer than needed. It will only be harder to clean off paint work etc.
Thats about it really, like I say not a guide. More of hey guys I painted my floor. I checked everywhere for some help, and not a lot on the internet.
Now some do's and don't that I found handy.
Do's
Buy the acceleration liquid and the Xylene (Xylol) cleaner.
BUY 1 LITRE POTS! It may work out dearer, but once these tins are opened they only last 24hrs before they cure. Also its a lot easier if you want to do over a few days etc
I bought 4 tins and used two, so if I did buy the 4 litre pot. I would have wasted a good £33!
Make sure you have plenty of cloths about to mop up etc.
Stir, stir and stir. Stir the paint at least every 10 minutes.
Buy a good breathing mask.
Mask up well.
DONT'S
Get in hair
On clothes
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Is it completely water proof and lasts the time? I did my current van by fibreglassing the floor. It worked well and is really strong but cost about £150 to have enough for a transit and a 8x4 trailer. This would work out slightly cheaper I think so if it's strong enough and water proof I'd probably look at getting this for the next van
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Fibreglass is a country mile better!
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Thanks Pure!
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TBH when i did my van, fiber glassing wasn't really known. I would look at that option now :)
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Yes that's what I thought as it's not just a thin layer of paint but a thicker layer of fiber glass. Wasn't too hard to apply and has lasted about 4yrs so far
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Stick with FG Ashley. :)
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I would go fibreglass if i had the choice again, much more hard wearing. You can get diy kits from www.window-tools.com, click on 'wash and reach van system' and scroll down the page. The price for a berlingo sized van is £80 + vat + delivery.
If you do go the protectakote route, which i did on my connect, the kit i bought from cleaning spot included full instructions. Plus, on their website, it says how much you need for whichever van you have.
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Last time I bought some I just got it from a fibreglass company online. I got about 20m of matting and 25L of resin for about £150-£200ish. It did loads of little jobs as well as the van and trailer so I'll probably get it from the same place
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Dave
I know that's an old Berlingo but I would go the fiberglass route as well TBH. One of the big issues with these vans is that the floor of the cargo area is higher than the driver and passenger footwells. I say passenger footwells as the Berlingo had the same floor pan was the Multispace people carrier. If you look carefully you will see a metal plate has been used to 'level' the cargo area over the footwells to behind the rear seats. This plate join isn't water proof so will let any water spills into the footwells.
If you also look carefully toward each side where the rear door opening would be if they were there, you will find 2 slots that vent the side inner side panels. These also fill up with spilled water.
My advise would be to build a tray of fiber glass all around with sides so the only escape for water spills is out of the rear doors. I would also construct those walls around the vent slots so water doesn't enter them but still allowing them to breathe.
If you are just going to Protectakote, then you maybe able to prepare the whole floor but only paint the front section (2 coats) as that van doesn't have a side loading door. I can't remember if your van had a foldup passenger seat (the LX model). If it does then you could get to the front section from there.
(If my memory serves me the 1.8 didn't have a foldup passenger seat, but it was introduced with the 1.9 LX. The L didn't have that option. We would tell the L and LX apart easily as the L didn't have side protectors down the sides. The 1.8 didn't have power steering on the 600 model.) I'm sure you asked what the 1.9d was like on the earlier post.
If the van has a factory fit half high steel bulkhead and upper mesh bulkhead, then you won't have access to the rear from the cabin.
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its utter rubbish don't bother wasteing your time
we have used it on our window cleaning van and never again , it gets mucky and looks real bad !! you cant clean it ,its cheap crap
all our other vans are speedlinered out and look as good as new as they did from day one , just a quick wipe and its clean again
we will be speedlining our new van when it comes in 8 weeks time its not cheap but worth the extra money
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Thanks again guys (and Susan ;D )
Nice that you remembered what van I bought Spruce. Yes it' s the older model Partner Lx600. The floor is plylined as well as the walls, so I'll take your word for it re vents and gaps in the floor! It also has a factory bulkhead, which is a bonus.
I think I'm going to have a go at fibreglassing the floor, over the ply, it looks quite easy (famous last words). I can get a kit form Ebay for about £50.
I've got about 6 weeks to get the van kitted out, so no major rush and I want to do it right first time.
Cheers
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Thanks again guys (and Susan ;D )
Nice that you remembered what van I bought Spruce. Yes it' s the older model Partner Lx600. The floor is plylined as well as the walls, so I'll take your word for it re vents and gaps in the floor! It also has a factory bulkhead, which is a bonus.
I think I'm going to have a go at fibreglassing the floor, over the ply, it looks quite easy (famous last words). I can get a kit form Ebay for about £50.
I've got about 6 weeks to get the van kitted out, so no major rush and I want to do it right first time.
Cheers
I would remove the plylining and fiber glass onto the metal floor.
I think Susan is right with her suggestion of speedlining, but it would probably cost more than you paid for the van. ;D
The cost can be justified with a new van IMO
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Lol, yeah my Trafic is speedlined and it's great
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I've just ordered a fibre glass kit because I protectacoted my van a few years ago but the ply is absolutely rotten now. So FG route is best then I'm going to put a rubber mat from country wide ( it's called stable matting 17 mm thick and patterned) cut to shape to protect it further. Pain to do but got to do it right this time. Protectacote is not really up to it in my opinion!
Cheers.
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Hi chez, where did you order the kit from?
Would be interesting to hear how you get on.
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Speedliner is great but i would only recommend it for newer vans as it costs around a grand. great if you are keeping your van for a good few years but costly if it is an older van.
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Hi Dave.
Ordered it from fibreglassdirect.co.uk not going to take the tank out as it is bolted through the floor. It's a 2 square metre pack inc of all tools and topcoat for £43
My flooring is rotten so I plan to just shape a new floor and edges. Was going to buy a ply line pack for the vw t5 but this would cost £140 odd with all panels. But as I only need the floor I'll make my own. Let you know how I get on!
cheers Chez
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An interesting read....
I have done 5 vans over the years with Protectacote and I thinks it's brilliant. All of the vans I have done have been ply-lined. I sweep the ply out, vacuum it, do a PVA glue wash to seal the wood, then run a bead of silicone sealer around the edges. Gutter sealer is good because it stays flexible and allows a bit of give with the ply without breaking the seal.
I always go 1ft up the side walls with the whole process too to make sure I get a good seal all the way around and the ply does not rot on the sides either.
I give it two coats, but I rotate 270 degrees, not the 90 mentioned above.
I give it a good scrub with one of my wfp's every 3 months or so when I'm parked on a decent slope so that the water runs straight out the back or side door. Every Christmas we have a 10 day shut down and I give it another two coats then. I swap my vans every 3 years, so whenever someone buys a van from me, it has either 6 or even 8 coats of Protectacote down. Because of the chemical composition of the stuff, it keys into itself meaning you can add another coat whenever you want and it blends in with the rest, not just sits on top.
I've never had a problem with rust, I do have the occasional connector pop off a DI vessel and flood the van, but I don't care because I KNOW there are no holes for the water to seep into, we just park on a hill, open the back doors and wash the road for free!
Until Protectacote lets me down, I wouldn't consider another option.
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An interesting read....
I have done 5 vans over the years with Protectacote and I thinks it's brilliant. All of the vans I have done have been ply-lined. I sweep the ply out, vacuum it, do a PVA glue wash to seal the wood, then run a bead of silicone sealer around the edges. Gutter sealer is good because it stays flexible and allows a bit of give with the ply without breaking the seal.
I always go 1ft up the side walls with the whole process too to make sure I get a good seal all the way around and the ply does not rot on the sides either.
I give it two coats, but I rotate 270 degrees, not the 90 mentioned above. isnt that the same, just turning the other way?
I give it a good scrub with one of my wfp's every 3 months or so when I'm parked on a decent slope so that the water runs straight out the back or side door. Every Christmas we have a 10 day shut down and I give it another two coats then. I swap my vans every 3 years, so whenever someone buys a van from me, it has either 6 or even 8 coats of Protectacote down. Because of the chemical composition of the stuff, it keys into itself meaning you can add another coat whenever you want and it blends in with the rest, not just sits on top.
I've never had a problem with rust, I do have the occasional connector pop off a DI vessel and flood the van, but I don't care because I KNOW there are no holes for the water to seep into, we just park on a hill, open the back doors and wash the road for free!
Until Protectacote lets me down, I wouldn't consider another option.
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An interesting read....
I have done 5 vans over the years with Protectacote and I thinks it's brilliant. All of the vans I have done have been ply-lined. I sweep the ply out, vacuum it, do a PVA glue wash to seal the wood, then run a bead of silicone sealer around the edges. Gutter sealer is good because it stays flexible and allows a bit of give with the ply without breaking the seal.
I always go 1ft up the side walls with the whole process too to make sure I get a good seal all the way around and the ply does not rot on the sides either.
I give it two coats, but I rotate 270 degrees, not the 90 mentioned above. isnt that the same, just turning the other way?
I give it a good scrub with one of my wfp's every 3 months or so when I'm parked on a decent slope so that the water runs straight out the back or side door. Every Christmas we have a 10 day shut down and I give it another two coats then. I swap my vans every 3 years, so whenever someone buys a van from me, it has either 6 or even 8 coats of Protectacote down. Because of the chemical composition of the stuff, it keys into itself meaning you can add another coat whenever you want and it blends in with the rest, not just sits on top.
I've never had a problem with rust, I do have the occasional connector pop off a DI vessel and flood the van, but I don't care because I KNOW there are no holes for the water to seep into, we just park on a hill, open the back doors and wash the road for free!
Until Protectacote lets me down, I wouldn't consider another option.
No, you turn the same way, just half again. ;D
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Cheers chez
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An interesting read....
I have done 5 vans over the years with Protectacote and I thinks it's brilliant. All of the vans I have done have been ply-lined. I sweep the ply out, vacuum it, do a PVA glue wash to seal the wood, then run a bead of silicone sealer around the edges. Gutter sealer is good because it stays flexible and allows a bit of give with the ply without breaking the seal.
I always go 1ft up the side walls with the whole process too to make sure I get a good seal all the way around and the ply does not rot on the sides either.
I give it two coats, but I rotate 270 degrees, not the 90 mentioned above. isnt that the same, just turning the other way?
I give it a good scrub with one of my wfp's every 3 months or so when I'm parked on a decent slope so that the water runs straight out the back or side door. Every Christmas we have a 10 day shut down and I give it another two coats then. I swap my vans every 3 years, so whenever someone buys a van from me, it has either 6 or even 8 coats of Protectacote down. Because of the chemical composition of the stuff, it keys into itself meaning you can add another coat whenever you want and it blends in with the rest, not just sits on top.
I've never had a problem with rust, I do have the occasional connector pop off a DI vessel and flood the van, but I don't care because I KNOW there are no holes for the water to seep into, we just park on a hill, open the back doors and wash the road for free!
Until Protectacote lets me down, I wouldn't consider another option.
No, you turn the same way, just half again. ;D
Get us.
Pythagoras should be scared. ;D
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An interesting read....
I have done 5 vans over the years with Protectacote and I thinks it's brilliant. All of the vans I have done have been ply-lined. I sweep the ply out, vacuum it, do a PVA glue wash to seal the wood, then run a bead of silicone sealer around the edges. Gutter sealer is good because it stays flexible and allows a bit of give with the ply without breaking the seal.
I always go 1ft up the side walls with the whole process too to make sure I get a good seal all the way around and the ply does not rot on the sides either.
I give it two coats, but I rotate 270 degrees, not the 90 mentioned above. isnt that the same, just turning the other way?
I give it a good scrub with one of my wfp's every 3 months or so when I'm parked on a decent slope so that the water runs straight out the back or side door. Every Christmas we have a 10 day shut down and I give it another two coats then. I swap my vans every 3 years, so whenever someone buys a van from me, it has either 6 or even 8 coats of Protectacote down. Because of the chemical composition of the stuff, it keys into itself meaning you can add another coat whenever you want and it blends in with the rest, not just sits on top.
I've never had a problem with rust, I do have the occasional connector pop off a DI vessel and flood the van, but I don't care because I KNOW there are no holes for the water to seep into, we just park on a hill, open the back doors and wash the road for free!
Until Protectacote lets me down, I wouldn't consider another option.
You mean he is taking a simple task and making it sound more technical than it really is?
I don't believe it......... :P
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An interesting read....
I have done 5 vans over the years with Protectacote and I thinks it's brilliant. All of the vans I have done have been ply-lined. I sweep the ply out, vacuum it, do a PVA glue wash to seal the wood, then run a bead of silicone sealer around the edges. Gutter sealer is good because it stays flexible and allows a bit of give with the ply without breaking the seal.
I always go 1ft up the side walls with the whole process too to make sure I get a good seal all the way around and the ply does not rot on the sides either.
I give it two coats, but I rotate 270 degrees, not the 90 mentioned above. isnt that the same, just turning the other way?
I give it a good scrub with one of my wfp's every 3 months or so when I'm parked on a decent slope so that the water runs straight out the back or side door. Every Christmas we have a 10 day shut down and I give it another two coats then. I swap my vans every 3 years, so whenever someone buys a van from me, it has either 6 or even 8 coats of Protectacote down. Because of the chemical composition of the stuff, it keys into itself meaning you can add another coat whenever you want and it blends in with the rest, not just sits on top.
I've never had a problem with rust, I do have the occasional connector pop off a DI vessel and flood the van, but I don't care because I KNOW there are no holes for the water to seep into, we just park on a hill, open the back doors and wash the road for free!
Until Protectacote lets me down, I wouldn't consider another option.
You mean he is taking a simple task and making it sound more technical than it really is?
I don't believe it......... :P
Lol! Not gonna get embroiled in ANOTHER discussion about this, but who has the jobs for these large solar installers? I only abide by their rules.
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Hi Dave.
Ordered it from fibreglassdirect.co.uk not going to take the tank out as it is bolted through the floor. It's a 2 square metre pack inc of all tools and topcoat for £43
My flooring is rotten so I plan to just shape a new floor and edges. Was going to buy a ply line pack for the vw t5 but this would cost £140 odd with all panels. But as I only need the floor I'll make my own. Let you know how I get on!
cheers Chez
The problem was that you painted over the plylining in the first place. The only way "to do it properly" is to remove the tank and do the floor totally. No matter what, the floor will be damp under the tank, even if you don't spill any water as the tank 'sweats'.
As per Solar Steve, I have found protectakote to be pretty good stuff. The only wear is from the hose reel. I now have rubber matting where the hose reel sits.