Clean It Up
UK Floor Cleaning Forum => Carpet Cleaning Forum => Topic started by: david@zap-clean on March 24, 2014, 03:52:09 pm
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I've just failed on a blood stained armchair. It's cotton/viscose. I tried the usual - lots of cold water flushing... Then used the full spot cleaning process. The 'best' progress was from giving it a good rub with a bar of natural soap! Ultimately, I even tried a little sod-met. I stopped when the fabric face started getting damaged.
Anyone have any other bright ideas what else could be done to improve this stain:
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1395676307_IMG-20140324-1024px.jpg)
^^^a clean bit without blood on it
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1395676326_IMG-20140324b-1024px.jpg)
^^^ After my cleaning attempt
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I think you've done a remarkable job, given how it was. Sometimes you just can't get it all out.
Simon
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Hi Simon, sorry I think I've mislead you.. the top photo is a clean bit that doesn't need spot treating.
The lower photo is after I tried to clean the blood out.
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I presume you used rust remover.
Sorry to state the obvious!
BTW Ive never had blood on upholstery, but used on carpets works well.
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try it if you have nothing to lose ,worked for me after everything failed .
let us know results .
http://barnsleycarpetanduphosterycleaners.wordpress.com/blog/page/4/
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Rust remover ;D
I look forward to the professional replies to this issue :)
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Rust remover prochem = pants
Craftex = brill
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Hi David
I had a massive blood stain about 4 weeks ago, ok it was on carpet and not UPH, but even so it was a right mess - and she tried vanish etc on some of it.
I used cold SPM with some decent amount of enzymes and left to dwell. I then used (and please dont laugh) a george wet vac. It didn't initially move much (and I thought oh great it's not going anywhere!) but then gradually it started to lift. With patience it eventually all came out. It took me an hour but it was one of those jobs where I really couldn't be bothered to get the TM out!
So perseverance is sometimes needed. BTW I have used a mix of rust remover and water before to lift a blood stain out - sorry Paul lol :D
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Cold stainpro.
Simon
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Never failed using enzyme detergent, Enzall or Craftex Pre-enzyme Solution used cold and left to dwell before rinsing. Peroxide to remove any remaining staining. Rust remover is to remove dark staining caused by Iron in the blood.
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Well it is a Protein spotter ! ;D
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Salt water is very effective on blood. Just use some warm water to dissolve the salt then mix that with your cool water. Leave to dwell foe a time and just flush with more salt water.
Peter
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Rust remover is great on blood ??? But I would not be using it on that type of fabric without pretesting!! Be warned. I once made a small 5 pence piece sized pink stain using it on cotton fabric. Luckily it was no where to be seen as it was the pre-test. I tried to reverse it with baking soda but didn't do bugger all.
Enzall would be my choice for that (or your enzyme of choice but everyone knows enzall is the daddy). Mix it with hot 60 degree water to release the enzyme action and dissolve the product, then cool it down before applying it to the stain, then rinse.
Again, make sure you dry thoroughly before packing up.
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when using enzall , if your planning on having children check out the chems that are used it , Alkylphenol Ethoxylate
http://healthychild.org/easy-steps/avoid-alkylphenol-ethoxylates-apes-in-cleaning-products-and-more/
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Thanks for all the replies. I tried many of them, but there's some new ideas in there for next time.
I put at least 20 litres of water through the stain (Sapphire tool) in the photo before backing off - there was no noticeable change.
Like many jobs, the price was agreed (fixed) before starting, and they'd had more than their monies worth at this point.
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David, this is on a similar line to Simon.
If you know someone with a Dry Fusion system, borrow a bit of Bactoshield and apply at the usual 4:1. The key here is to use it COLD.
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I would cold rinse as much as possible. The apply M-Power cold, dwell for 30 mins with a second light application half way and then rinse cold. Hot water will set the proteins. Rust remover might be required but I have had spectacular results with the above on upholstery as well as carpets.
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Right, thanks to the helpful advice on here I've arranged to recall on this job and have another go - Thursday morning... Photo's to follow... ;)
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Make sure you agree a day rate as with the number of replys above youll be there all day trying!!
Given the viscose content id tell them to ring their insurance co.
Mark
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Make sure you agree a day rate as with the number of replys above youll be there all day trying!!
Given the viscose content id tell them to ring their insurance co.
It's not insured.
Better than a day rate, I asked them how much it cost, £899, so I'll charge them £894 -
A win-win situation, they save £5 and I get a great learning experience ;)
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apply ammonia,rub with bar soap,apply steam then flush out
you may have to repeat ,plenty of dwell time is the key
gary
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I wouldn't use a steam gun :o
Yes, what method you going to use David? there is at least 100 there lol
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I wouldn't use a steam gun :o
Yes, what method you going to use David? there is at least 100 there lol
Good question... I've already tried most of the standard replies above. I'm going with John's advice - as I know he's got A* credentials & experience:
'enzyme detergent used cold and left to dwell before rinsing.
Peroxide to remove any remaining staining.
Rust remover is to remove dark staining caused by Iron in the blood.'
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John Kelly: I owe you a big kiss when I see you.
Excellent results using your procedure - thank you very much.
Here's a before and after photo (colour balance between images is poor - sorry).
The water marking is because it's still wet, and should go when it's dry.
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1395922093_Before_After_V640px.jpg)
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That's fab, Dave. Well done you.
Simon
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That's fab, Dave. Well done you.
Ditto.
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Which enzyme product did you use David?
did you not force dry it before leaving?
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Which enzyme product did you use David?
I've just switched to Chemspec products - I will be using them for 6 months for a full evaluation.
Enz-All
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Enzall would be my choice for that (or your enzyme of choice but everyone knows enzall is the daddy). Mix it with hot 60 degree water to release the enzyme action and dissolve the product, then cool it down before applying it to the stain, then rinse.
Again, make sure you dry thoroughly before packing up.
Well David son, you might want to pucker up your lips :-*. Looks like I have A star credentials & experience too :P :P
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And me ;D
Hi David
I had a massive blood stain about 4 weeks ago, ok it was on carpet and not UPH, but even so it was a right mess - and she tried vanish etc on some of it.
I used cold SPM with some decent amount of enzymes and left to dwell. I then used (and please dont laugh) a george wet vac. It didn't initially move much (and I thought oh great it's not going anywhere!) but then gradually it started to lift. With patience it eventually all came out. It took me an hour but it was one of those jobs where I really couldn't be bothered to get the TM out!
So perseverance is sometimes needed. BTW I have used a mix of rust remover and water before to lift a blood stain out - sorry Paul lol :D
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I went to a blood spill today on a cream wool Berber , the owner had attempted removal but it had returned . i thought oh my god this will be hard .
Armed with the knowledge of this weeks post i armed myself with enzymes,rust remover, ammonia, peroxide etc.
As always suggested, first thing i did Cold water extract and rinsed out all the sh it he had put in ,and guess what it all disappeared , I then dried it with a hair dryer and it looked like new .
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Sometimes Neil but in David's case a rinse was not enough.
Glad you dried it before leaving though. ;D