Clean It Up
UK Window Cleaning Forum => Window Cleaning Forum => Topic started by: Nick_Thompson on December 04, 2013, 07:32:29 pm
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It struck me that we're part of an industry that, by its very nature, encourages the inventor in us all. We're at liberty to find solutions to our problems and to come up with better ways of going about our tasks.
Sometimes, we'll employ a tiny little tweak to something and discover a far more efficient way of doing things.
For example, I've played around with different ways of securing my hose reels in the back of my van, that didn't involve drilling into the floor, and allowed me to lift them out if I wanted. Nothing seemed to work very well until I settled for something simple, just to restrict the lateral movement when driving round corners, at least. What I put in place turned out to be highly effective, in that they are rock solid whilst in situ, but can be very easily removed.
It's just a length of plastic pipe!
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz300/nickthompson1959/Mobile%20Uploads/20131201_134536_zpsbdd75ec1.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/nickthompson1959/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20131201_134536_zpsbdd75ec1.jpg.html)
So, got anything you can share?
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last time i shared anything on here , someone did a vid on it and took the credit ::)roll
nice setup by the way 8)
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I just put two lengths of wood across van to keep hosereel in place
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last time i shared anything on here , someone did a vid on it and took the credit ::)roll
nice setup by the way 8)
Thanks Mike!
I wouldn't worry that someone else receive your plaudits, if I were you; look at it this way... at least that person help you disseminate your idea to a larger audience.
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I just put two lengths of wood across van to keep hosereel in place
How did you secure them, Windows?
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Where you get the clips from , crocodile type things
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Where you get the clips from , crocodile type things
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as someone broken in to your van :o ;D ;D
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Where you get the clips from , crocodile type things
They are spring clamps, sometimes called crocodile clamps or whatever.
Should be able to get them in any diy store.
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as someone broken in to your van :o ;D ;D
van snob ;D
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i am working on a wheelie bin that moves out of the way as soon has it senses a pole hose or reel hose and has lifting wheels
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Let me tidy your van pleaseeee ???
Plenty of poles their like!!
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i am working on a wheelie bin that moves out of the way as soon has it senses a pole hose or reel hose and has lifting wheels
now we're talking that would be a winner and money earner
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Where you get the clips from , crocodile type things
B&Q, I think, Kempy.
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as someone broken in to your van :o ;D ;D
+1 what a mess!
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as someone broken in to your van :o ;D ;D
+1 what a mess!
Now dont beat around the bush, Ben, if you have something to say, just come straight out with it. :)
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So, seeing as 'necessity is the mother of invention', is anyone working on a cure for a dirty pole being the main contributor to premature pole wear?
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So, seeing as 'necessity is the mother of invention', is anyone working on a cure for a dirty pole being the main contributor to premature pole wear?
WD40 and a towel bud.
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What's the thing that looks like a radiator attached to the tank
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So, seeing as 'necessity is the mother of invention', is anyone working on a cure for a dirty pole being the main contributor to premature pole wear?
WD40 and a towel bud.
Sorry, that should of said, dirty pole hose.
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The simple ideas are often the best. I use bungee cords for this task but I like your idea.
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Is that bubble wrap all round the inside of the van for insulation purposes?
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What's the thing that looks like a radiator attached to the tank
A radiator! ;D
I don't really use it anymore, Sunshine, as the aquarium heat that I place in the tank radiates enough heat to act as a giant radiator, that continues to heat the back of the van throughout the working day.
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So, seeing as 'necessity is the mother of invention', is anyone working on a cure for a dirty pole being the main contributor to premature pole wear?
WD40 and a towel bud.
Sorry, that should of said, dirty pole hose.
Just the towel then bud.
Every time the pole goes back into the van run the hose through a towel before winding up.
That and strip down the pole and thoroughly flush out at the end of every month.
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Is that bubble wrap all round the inside of the van for insulation purposes?
It is, Tom. It makes a tremendous difference in keeping the van warm, but it needs to be reinstalled.
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Got a link to the aquarium heater that you use?
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I just put two lengths of wood across van to keep hosereel in place
How did you secure them, Windows?
Haven't ! the wood sits across the width of the van and the hosereel sits in between, it isn't going anywhere when I drive and I can lift it out when I'm doing removals
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What's the thing that looks like a radiator attached to the tank
A radiator! ;D
I don't really use it anymore, Sunshine, as the aquarium heat that I place in the tank radiates enough heat to act as a giant radiator, that continues to heat the back of the van throughout the working day.
Have you got a link to the aquarium heater you use please Nick?
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So, seeing as 'necessity is the mother of invention', is anyone working on a cure for a dirty pole being the main contributor to premature pole wear?
Isn't Aquadapter looking at something? I hope they are. It was a pleasure not having to clean the pole hose today and the ground was frozen so no bits. Wednesday was wet and was a nightmare. Its at times like this when I think it would be better to go back to running the hose on the outside of the pole.
I also suggested to Paul from A/D (long before he left them) that we need someone to come out with a better alternative to Protecta Balls. Mine gets hooked up everywhere.
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Would you buy a gadget to keep pole hose clean and will it even wash poo of the hose in the process.I have designed just such a tool.It will be fastened to you hose reel.I am at this moment testing it.
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Got a link to the aquarium heater that you use?
Deeege and Andy, I believe this is the one!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HIGH-POWERED-500W-1000W-SUBMERSIBLE-AQUARIUM-COMBINED-HEATER-THERMOSTAT-/181271061099?pt=UK_Pet_Supplies_Fish&var=&hash=item2a3498e26b
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz300/nickthompson1959/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192606_zps39ef5902.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/nickthompson1959/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192606_zps39ef5902.jpg.html)
One of these 1000w heaters in a 500 litre tank of water will raise the temperature to about 26-28 ºC in 7-8 hours, at about £1 in price.
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Got a link to the aquarium heater that you use?
Deeege and Andy, I believe this is the one!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HIGH-POWERED-500W-1000W-SUBMERSIBLE-AQUARIUM-COMBINED-HEATER-THERMOSTAT-/181271061099?pt=UK_Pet_Supplies_Fish&var=&hash=item2a3498e26b
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz300/nickthompson1959/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192606_zps39ef5902.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/nickthompson1959/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192606_zps39ef5902.jpg.html)
One of these 1000w heaters in a 500 litre tank of water will raise the temperature to about 26-28 ºC in 7-8 hours, at about £1 in price.
I wouldnt've think of that.
If one of these is plopped in my tank.
Bearing in mind water holds heat well, will it be enough to stop the hoses freezing?
If so, it seems genius!
If not, it seems pointless as I'd still have to stick a heater in the van to keep the pump, L5 and hoses from freezing...
Anyone know?
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Thank you Nick. :)
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A couple of other serendipitous discoveries I just happened upon:
Don a pair of these before you put on your working gloves and they will always smell as fresh as the dy you bought them.
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz300/nickthompson1959/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192432_zpsef0d4345.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/nickthompson1959/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192432_zpsef0d4345.jpg.html)
And, the first section of an Unger pole just happens to be the right circumference to make a super light trad pole.
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz300/nickthompson1959/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_075510_zps03d7c0de.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/nickthompson1959/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_075510_zps03d7c0de.jpg.html)
Making these somewhat obsolete:
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz300/nickthompson1959/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_081332_zps14aa8e67.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/nickthompson1959/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_081332_zps14aa8e67.jpg.html)
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Got a link to the aquarium heater that you use?
Deeege and Andy, I believe this is the one!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HIGH-POWERED-500W-1000W-SUBMERSIBLE-AQUARIUM-COMBINED-HEATER-THERMOSTAT-/181271061099?pt=UK_Pet_Supplies_Fish&var=&hash=item2a3498e26b
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz300/nickthompson1959/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192606_zps39ef5902.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/nickthompson1959/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192606_zps39ef5902.jpg.html)
One of these 1000w heaters in a 500 litre tank of water will raise the temperature to about 26-28 ºC in 7-8 hours, at about £1 in price.
I wouldnt've think of that.
If one of these is plopped in my tank.
Bearing in mind water holds heat well, will it be enough to stop the hoses freezing?
If so, it seems genius!
If not, it seems pointless as I'd still have to stick a heater in the van to keep the pump, L5 and hoses from freezing...
Anyone know?
I did that all last winter, Darren. It works over night, as long as you don't insulate your tank, and throughout the day as the third law of thermodynamics dictates. (I enjoyed that one)
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Thank you Nick. :)
You're very welcome, Andy!
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So, seeing as 'necessity is the mother of invention', is anyone working on a cure for a dirty pole being the main contributor to premature pole wear?
Isn't Aquadapter looking at something? I hope they are. It was a pleasure not having to clean the pole hose today and the ground was frozen so no bits. Wednesday was wet and was a nightmare. Its at times like this when I think it would be better to go back to running the hose on the outside of the pole.
Rather than concentrating on a piece of gadgetry, Spruce, to allow the pole hose to continue being use on the inside, as convenient as that would be, I've always imagined that the solution would come in the form of an efficient, super light weight, external pole hose guide; to do away with the problem of engineering a thingamajig, altogether.
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Cringe! :-X
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Cringe! :-X
;D why's that Chanster? You no like?
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i just like organisation m8! people say i have a ocd but thats unbelievable!
The fish tank heater does it really work??????
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i just like organisation m8! people say i have a ocd but thats unbelievable!
The fish tank heater does it really work??????
Oh, I see, you're referring to the state of my van, aren't you?
The 'fish tank heater' can raise the water temperature to 30ºC before the built in thermostat cuts in, and while that may not produce enough heat at the brush head for optimum first clean results, it's more that enough to keep the hose supple and the water flowing, Chanster.
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once unplugged how long does it take to cool!
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i just like organisation m8! people say i have a ocd but thats unbelievable!
The fish tank heater does it really work??????
Oh, I see, you're referring to the state of my van, aren't you?
The 'fish tank heater' can raise the water temperature to 30ºC before the built in thermostat cuts in, and while that may not produce enough heat at the brush head for optimum first clean results, it's more that enough to keep the hose supple and the water flowing, Chanster.
That is a really good idea.
I have a LPG heater and I the winter I only have the water going into the reel at 30degrees c anyway. By the time it gets to the brush head it's about 15 degrees which in the winter is plenty.
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once unplugged how long does it take to cool!
Well, if I heat one of my 500 litre tanks to, say, around 28ºC and then use 400 litres throughout the day, the 100 litres that still remains in the tank reads somewhere around 15ºC to 18ºC, depending on how cold it is outside. If you were so inclined as to negate the benefits of the lost heat from the water in the tank, that would be providing enough warmth to stop anything freezing up in the back of the van whilst on the move, I suppose you could significantly influence the loss with a little insulation.
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Here's a little discovery I made - gutter support brackets make rather good pole holders!
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A little discovery i made a few years back called LADDERS ;D you all shud give them a try ;D
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A little discovery i made a few Many, Many, Manyyears back called LADDERS ;D you all shud give them a try ;D
FTFY ;D
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im only 42 so cant be 50 years :)
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im only 42 so cant be 50 years :)
You look good for 42.
Haircut wouldn't go amiss though.
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Here's a little discovery I made - gutter support brackets make rather good pole holders!
Nice one, Mr G! Do you find them strong enough?
A little discovery i made a few years back called LADDERS you all shud give them a try
;D
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Here's a little discovery I made - gutter support brackets make rather good pole holders!
Nice one, Mr G! Do you find them strong enough?
Yes they are
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Got a link to the aquarium heater that you use?
Deeege and Andy, I believe this is the one!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HIGH-POWERED-500W-1000W-SUBMERSIBLE-AQUARIUM-COMBINED-HEATER-THERMOSTAT-/181271061099?pt=UK_Pet_Supplies_Fish&var=&hash=item2a3498e26b
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz300/nickthompson1959/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192606_zps39ef5902.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/nickthompson1959/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192606_zps39ef5902.jpg.html)
One of these 1000w heaters in a 500 litre tank of water will raise the temperature to about 26-28 ºC in 7-8 hours, at about £1 in price.
Nick - when you drop it in the tank does it touch the side? Is there a risk of melting the plastic tank? I was always put off this because I heard you had to agitate the water to heat it equally throughout the tank. Am I wrong in thinking the back half of the tank would be cold? I have a 500l tank.
Cheers
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I have another one! An alternative method of securing your pole clamps.
After the removal of any glue remnants from the end of the pole (l use a combination of scraper blade and Emery paper), degrease it with a little alcohol (spirit, not Baileys).
Apply electrical insulation tape to the order of one and a half or more turns (you'll have to experiment a little) to the pole end.
Stand the clamp in just enough boiled water to cover the part of the clamp that houses the pole for one minute.
Dry as quickly as possible and immediately apply to the pole end with a slight twist in the direction that the tape was applied
Push the clamp all the way home by inverting the pole and pressing down on a firm surface.
As the clamp cools it will shrink to greatly enhance the permanency of the interference fit.
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Got a link to the aquarium heater that you use?
Deeege and Andy, I believe this is the one!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HIGH-POWERED-500W-1000W-SUBMERSIBLE-AQUARIUM-COMBINED-HEATER-THERMOSTAT-/181271061099?pt=UK_Pet_Supplies_Fish&var=&hash=item2a3498e26b
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz300/nickthompson1959/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192606_zps39ef5902.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/nickthompson1959/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192606_zps39ef5902.jpg.html)
One of these 1000w heaters in a 500 litre tank of water will raise the temperature to about 26-28 ºC in 7-8 hours, at about £1 in price.
Nick - when you drop it in the tank does it touch the side? Is there a risk of melting the plastic tank? I was always put off this because I heard you had to agitate the water to heat it equally throughout the tank. Am I wrong in thinking the back half of the tank would be cold? I have a 500l tank.
Cheers
Hi Carl!
Those two black plastic surrounds either end of the heater keep it from coming into contact with the tank.
Your concerns regarding the uneven pockets of heated water are largely taken care of by convection (the warmed water will rise allowing the cold water to come into contact with the heater) while the heater is switched on, and the stirring effect of movement whilst driving around.
Of course, there will always be a propensity for the warm water to slowly make its way to the top, but the overall process is not too profound.
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Got a link to the aquarium heater that you use?
Deeege and Andy, I believe this is the one!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HIGH-POWERED-500W-1000W-SUBMERSIBLE-AQUARIUM-COMBINED-HEATER-THERMOSTAT-/181271061099?pt=UK_Pet_Supplies_Fish&var=&hash=item2a3498e26b
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz300/nickthompson1959/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192606_zps39ef5902.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/nickthompson1959/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192606_zps39ef5902.jpg.html)
One of these 1000w heaters in a 500 litre tank of water will raise the temperature to about 26-28 ºC in 7-8 hours, at about £1 in price.
Nick - when you drop it in the tank does it touch the side? Is there a risk of melting the plastic tank? I was always put off this because I heard you had to agitate the water to heat it equally throughout the tank. Am I wrong in thinking the back half of the tank would be cold? I have a 500l tank.
Cheers
Hi Carl!
Those two black plastic surrounds either end of the heater keep it from coming into contact with the tank.
Your concerns regarding the uneven pockets of heated water are largely taken care of by convection (the warmed water will rise allowing the cold water to come into contact with the heater) while the heater is switched on, and the stirring effect of movement whilst driving around.
Of course, there will always be a propensity for the warm water to slowly make its way to the top, but the overall process is not too profound.
Cheers Nick
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Relocating the handle from factory position to location highlighted by arrow significantly speeds up reeling in
Simply drill hole where highlighted, refit handle to new location
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Relocating the the handle from factory position to location highlighted by arrow significantly speeds up reeling in
Simply drill hole where highlighted, refit handle to new location
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz300/nickthompson1959/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2013-12-08-14-46-29-1_zps6a086172.png) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/nickthompson1959/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2013-12-08-14-46-29-1_zps6a086172.png.html)
Hi Steve!
I'm just wondering whether that might create a little too much torque, when in the summer, for example, you might have to contend with reeling in all 100 meters of hose with the friction that is produced over hot tarmac.
Having said that, I'm going to give it a go anyway, just as soon as I can get to my dads and use his pillar drill.
Thanks for the tip!
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An emergency flow controller bypass; complete with battery clamps, switch, fuse and female electrical connections (or, whatever they're called) for when the charge in a already knackered battery is insufficient to allow for the usual controller functions, but is still strong enough to power the pump for hours.
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz300/nickthompson1959/Mobile%20Uploads/20131208_110802_zps886e4390.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/nickthompson1959/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20131208_110802_zps886e4390.jpg.html)
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Relocating the the handle from factory position to location highlighted by arrow significantly speeds up reeling in
Simply drill hole where highlighted, refit handle to new location
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz300/nickthompson1959/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2013-12-08-14-46-29-1_zps6a086172.png) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/nickthompson1959/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2013-12-08-14-46-29-1_zps6a086172.png.html)
Hi Steve!
I'm just wondering whether that might create a little too much torque, when in the summer, for example, you might have to contend with reeling in all 100 meters of hose with the friction that is produced over hot tarmac.
Having said that, I'm going to give it a go anyway, just as soon as I can get to my dads and use his pillar drill.
Thanks for the tip!
I did this when I got my new Pure Freedom-style reel with no problems. Note that the new reel came with a plastic handle as opposed to the metal handle of the original reel. The plastic one broke quickly so when I swapped the old handle across I did as suggested here and drilled a new hole. As I say there have been no issues and it does def speed up winding in.
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Now, this is only for those of you who are at your wits end with grit grinding away your carbon fibre faster than you can save up to replace it.
Are you ready... dont hold back... let me have it!
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz300/nickthompson1959/Mobile%20Uploads/20131208_122229_zps0793c60a.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/nickthompson1959/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20131208_122229_zps0793c60a.jpg.html)
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz300/nickthompson1959/Mobile%20Uploads/20131208_121045_zps02df845c.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/nickthompson1959/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20131208_121045_zps02df845c.jpg.html)
Once you get used to it... no, really... as long as you always remember to retract the pole in the upright position, it works fine. But, of course, the best thing about mastering the pole with an external hose is this...
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz300/nickthompson1959/Mobile%20Uploads/20131208_124742_zps3806101b.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/nickthompson1959/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20131208_124742_zps3806101b.jpg.html)
NOTHING!
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Got a link to the aquarium heater that you use?
Deeege and Andy, I believe this is the one!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HIGH-POWERED-500W-1000W-SUBMERSIBLE-AQUARIUM-COMBINED-HEATER-THERMOSTAT-/181271061099?pt=UK_Pet_Supplies_Fish&var=&hash=item2a3498e26b
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz300/nickthompson1959/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192606_zps39ef5902.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/nickthompson1959/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192606_zps39ef5902.jpg.html)
One of these 1000w heaters in a 500 litre tank of water will raise the temperature to about 26-28 ºC in 7-8 hours, at about £1 in price.
Nick - when you drop it in the tank does it touch the side? Is there a risk of melting the plastic tank? I was always put off this because I heard you had to agitate the water to heat it equally throughout the tank. Am I wrong in thinking the back half of the tank would be cold? I have a 500l tank.
Cheers
Hi Carl!
Those two black plastic surrounds either end of the heater keep it from coming into contact with the tank.
Your concerns regarding the uneven pockets of heated water are largely taken care of by convection (the warmed water will rise allowing the cold water to come into contact with the heater) while the heater is switched on, and the stirring effect of movement whilst driving around.
Of course, there will always be a propensity for the warm water to slowly make its way to the top, but the overall process is not too profound.
Are these sufficient when used over night to (hopefully) prevent pump hose reel etc.. Freezing too as well as heating water in tank for next day ?
Thanks
Paul
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For all that are fed up with your connectors disconnecting or protect ball getting caught
Place a washer on you male pole connector before fitting hose and 'o'ring as in attached image
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For all that are fed up with your connectors disconnecting or protect ball getting caught
Place a washer on you male pole connector before fitting hose and 'o'ring as in attached image
that is brilliant
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Are these sufficient when used over night to (hopefully) prevent pump hose reel etc.. Freezing too as well as heating water in tank for next day ?ThanksPaul
If you take into account that it is going to be 4 or 5 hours before the water will be warm enough to start acting as a radiator, then yes Paul, it will easily provide frost protection for the back of your van after that time period has elapsed, and heat the water up at the same time.
I turn mine on at midnight when a freeze has been forecast which then provides the aforementioned, but on a few nights last winter, when the temperature had dropped way below freezing by 3 pm in the afternoon, I anticipated the severity of the cold and its effect on everything water related in my van by turning the heater on as soon as I return home from work with no problems.
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Are these sufficient when used over night to (hopefully) prevent pump hose reel etc.. Freezing too as well as heating water in tank for next day ?ThanksPaul
If you take into account that it is going to be 4 or 5 hours before the water will be warm enough to start acting as a radiator, then yes Paul, it will easily provide frost protection for the back of your van after that time period has elapsed, and heat the water up at the same time.
I turn mine on at midnight when a freeze has been forecasted which then provides the aforementioned, but on a few nights last winter, when the temperature had dropped way below freezing by 3 pm in the afternoon, I anticipated the severity of the cold and its effect on everything water related in my van by turning the heater on as soon as I return home from work with no problems.
Spot on thanks
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For all that are fed up with your connectors disconnecting or protect ball getting caught
Place a washer on you male pole connector before fitting hose and 'o'ring as in attached image
Would somebody be kind enough to post a picture of Steve's download, as I can't open it for some reason.
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The cable ties for the hose and the washer - what brilliant ideas. I'm going to be using both so thanks for sharing.
I'm afraid I've got no hot ideas - I just muddle my way through things although recently I re discovered stick on velcro.
A lot of things that used to rattle around in the back of the van now don't. I've also stuck big strips of velcro on the hose reel and van floor so noe I can use that in the van or take it out.
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I've also stuck big strips of velcro on the hose reel and van floor so noe I can use that in the van or take it out.
That sounds interesting, Ross, got any pics?
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Nick, there's not really anything worth taking a picture of.
It's just two 12 inch long strips of velcro on the van floor and velco stuck all over the bottom of the hose reel.
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Nick, there's not really anything worth taking a picture of.
It's just two 12 inch long strips of velcro on the van floor and velco stuck all over the bottom of the hose reel.
LOL, yeah, I know Ross, I just have an extremely poor imagination. :)
Good idea, though.
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i thought id give the tank heater a whirl. nice post nick
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Paul are the fish tank heaters submerged under the water and are they in your tank all the time or do you put them in when required?
Thanks
Michael
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We've been known to use what is called a 'mop'. Please see item below. Fantastic piece of kit. I can see the Northern Ladder Monkeys loving these.
(http://res.cloudinary.com/djwa0ls5a/image/upload/v1386634903/image_ap5gqn.jpg)
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Paul are the fish tank heaters submerged under the water and are they in your tank all the time or do you put them in when required?
Thanks
Michael
Just drop them in the tank when required, Mr G&M.
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Thanks Nick
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Here's a tip. We all know that SLX poles are the business, but that the clamp glue has, in the past, come loose of the pole. It doesn't help if you or your staff are a bit rough when collapsing each section - as one section slides into the other the clamps can take a bash at their base, just where the glue is.
What I've done is get a strip of duct tape 18" long (torn in half, lengthways) and wrapped it around each pole section, just below each clamp. It adds little to the collapsed length of the pole. If you let a section collapse onto the one below a bit hard the duct tape takes the impact, rather than the clamp that is above it.
So far all my clamps have stayed put since I did this.
Worth a try?
Cheers
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Here's a tip. We all know that SLX poles are the business, but that the clamp glue has, in the past, come loose of the pole. It doesn't help if you or your staff are a bit rough when collapsing each section - as one section slides into the other the clamps can take a bash at their base, just where the glue is.
What I've done is get a strip of duct tape 18" long (torn in half, lengthways) and wrapped it around each pole section, just below each clamp. It adds little to the collapsed length of the pole. If you let a section collapse onto the one below a bit hard the duct tape takes the impact, rather than the clamp that is above it.
So far all my clamps have stayed put since I did this.
Worth a try?
Cheers
I agree - and I use gaffer tape for a temporary repair if a clamp gets loose and then leave it in place for weeks on end!
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Here's a tip. We all know that SLX poles are the business, but that the clamp glue has, in the past, come loose of the pole. It doesn't help if you or your staff are a bit rough when collapsing each section - as one section slides into the other the clamps can take a bash at their base, just where the glue is.
What I've done is get a strip of duct tape 18" long (torn in half, lengthways) and wrapped it around each pole section, just below each clamp. It adds little to the collapsed length of the pole. If you let a section collapse onto the one below a bit hard the duct tape takes the impact, rather than the clamp that is above it.
So far all my clamps have stayed put since I did this.
Worth a try?
Cheers
Yeah its a good idea, we use rubber o rings about 3 or 4 of them per sections. Takes out all the shock :)
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Here's a tip. We all know that SLX poles are the business, but that the clamp glue has, in the past, come loose of the pole. It doesn't help if you or your staff are a bit rough when collapsing each section - as one section slides into the other the clamps can take a bash at their base, just where the glue is.
What I've done is get a strip of duct tape 18" long (torn in half, lengthways) and wrapped it around each pole section, just below each clamp. It adds little to the collapsed length of the pole. If you let a section collapse onto the one below a bit hard the duct tape takes the impact, rather than the clamp that is above it.
So far all my clamps have stayed put since I did this.
Worth a try?
Cheers
Yeah its a good idea, we use rubber o rings about 3 or 4 of them per sections. Takes out all the shock :)
Hi Pure!
Where did you purchase the O rings, Sir?
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Ebay mate, got something like 1000 for £4
if i sat down and wrote out all my ideas we could be here all night :D
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Ebay mate, got something like 1000 for £4
if i sat down and wrote out all my ideas we could be here all night :D
Share them at the rate of one a day. :)
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Got a link to the aquarium heater that you use?
Deeege and Andy, I believe this is the one!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HIGH-POWERED-500W-1000W-SUBMERSIBLE-AQUARIUM-COMBINED-HEATER-THERMOSTAT-/181271061099?pt=UK_Pet_Supplies_Fish&var=&hash=item2a3498e26b
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz300/nickthompson1959/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192606_zps39ef5902.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/nickthompson1959/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192606_zps39ef5902.jpg.html)
One of these 1000w heaters in a 500 litre tank of water will raise the temperature to about 26-28 ºC in 7-8 hours, at about £1 in price.
Nick - when you drop it in the tank does it touch the side? Is there a risk of melting the plastic tank? I was always put off this because I heard you had to agitate the water to heat it equally throughout the tank. Am I wrong in thinking the back half of the tank would be cold? I have a 500l tank.
Cheers
Hi Carl!
Those two black plastic surrounds either end of the heater keep it from coming into contact with the tank.
Your concerns regarding the uneven pockets of heated water are largely taken care of by convection (the warmed water will rise allowing the cold water to come into contact with the heater) while the heater is switched on, and the stirring effect of movement whilst driving around.
Of course, there will always be a propensity for the warm water to slowly make its way to the top, but the overall process is not too profound.
Are these sufficient when used over night to (hopefully) prevent pump hose reel etc.. Freezing too as well as heating water in tank for next day ?
Thanks
Paul
got one of these arrived today.
do I keep the plastic (square bits on) when I place it in the tank to keep off the tank itself?
instructions sau keep the suction pads off the heater element of part of the tube... but the above post states I can keep the plastic bits on.. will they not over heat / melt?
comments / thoughts please
thanks
paul
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If you go in an aquarium shop you can ask to purchase plastic casings for them to minimise damage caused by accidental knocks. Also you can buy these heaters with different lengths of electrical cable, some are only 1 metre and some are 2metres so if you have an upright tank it may pay to buy the 2 metre lengths or fit one that floats on the top of the water
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Got a link to the aquarium heater that you use?
Deeege and Andy, I believe this is the one!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HIGH-POWERED-500W-1000W-SUBMERSIBLE-AQUARIUM-COMBINED-HEATER-THERMOSTAT-/181271061099?pt=UK_Pet_Supplies_Fish&var=&hash=item2a3498e26b
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz300/nickthompson1959/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192606_zps39ef5902.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/nickthompson1959/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192606_zps39ef5902.jpg.html)
One of these 1000w heaters in a 500 litre tank of water will raise the temperature to about 26-28 ºC in 7-8 hours, at about £1 in price.
Nick - when you drop it in the tank does it touch the side? Is there a risk of melting the plastic tank? I was always put off this because I heard you had to agitate the water to heat it equally throughout the tank. Am I wrong in thinking the back half of the tank would be cold? I have a 500l tank.
Cheers
Hi Carl!
Those two black plastic surrounds either end of the heater keep it from coming into contact with the tank.
Your concerns regarding the uneven pockets of heated water are largely taken care of by convection (the warmed water will rise allowing the cold water to come into contact with the heater) while the heater is switched on, and the stirring effect of movement whilst driving around.
Of course, there will always be a propensity for the warm water to slowly make its way to the top, but the overall process is not too profound.
Are these sufficient when used over night to (hopefully) prevent pump hose reel etc.. Freezing too as well as heating water in tank for next day ?
Thanks
Paul
got one of these arrived today.
do I keep the plastic (square bits on) when I place it in the tank to keep off the tank itself?
instructions sau keep the suction pads off the heater element of part of the tube... but the above post states I can keep the plastic bits on.. will they not over heat / melt?
comments / thoughts please
thanks
paul
Hi Paul!
I've used my aquarium heater just as you see it in the picture with no problems whatsoever.
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Got a link to the aquarium heater that you use?
Deeege and Andy, I believe this is the one!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HIGH-POWERED-500W-1000W-SUBMERSIBLE-AQUARIUM-COMBINED-HEATER-THERMOSTAT-/181271061099?pt=UK_Pet_Supplies_Fish&var=&hash=item2a3498e26b
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz300/nickthompson1959/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192606_zps39ef5902.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/nickthompson1959/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192606_zps39ef5902.jpg.html)
One of these 1000w heaters in a 500 litre tank of water will raise the temperature to about 26-28 ºC in 7-8 hours, at about £1 in price.
Nick - when you drop it in the tank does it touch the side? Is there a risk of melting the plastic tank? I was always put off this because I heard you had to agitate the water to heat it equally throughout the tank. Am I wrong in thinking the back half of the tank would be cold? I have a 500l tank.
Cheers
Hi Carl!
Those two black plastic surrounds either end of the heater keep it from coming into contact with the tank.
Your concerns regarding the uneven pockets of heated water are largely taken care of by convection (the warmed water will rise allowing the cold water to come into contact with the heater) while the heater is switched on, and the stirring effect of movement whilst driving around.
Of course, there will always be a propensity for the warm water to slowly make its way to the top, but the overall process is not too profound.
Are these sufficient when used over night to (hopefully) prevent pump hose reel etc.. Freezing too as well as heating water in tank for next day ?
Thanks
Paul
got one of these arrived today.
do I keep the plastic (square bits on) when I place it in the tank to keep off the tank itself?
instructions sau keep the suction pads off the heater element of part of the tube... but the above post states I can keep the plastic bits on.. will they not over heat / melt?
comments / thoughts please
thanks
paul
Hi Paul!
I've used my aquarium heater just as you see it in the picture with no problems whatsoever.
Mine arrived today too, but is broken inside - need to return :-(
-
Got a link to the aquarium heater that you use?
Deeege and Andy, I believe this is the one!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HIGH-POWERED-500W-1000W-SUBMERSIBLE-AQUARIUM-COMBINED-HEATER-THERMOSTAT-/181271061099?pt=UK_Pet_Supplies_Fish&var=&hash=item2a3498e26b
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz300/nickthompson1959/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192606_zps39ef5902.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/nickthompson1959/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192606_zps39ef5902.jpg.html)
One of these 1000w heaters in a 500 litre tank of water will raise the temperature to about 26-28 ºC in 7-8 hours, at about £1 in price.
Nick - when you drop it in the tank does it touch the side? Is there a risk of melting the plastic tank? I was always put off this because I heard you had to agitate the water to heat it equally throughout the tank. Am I wrong in thinking the back half of the tank would be cold? I have a 500l tank.
Cheers
Hi Carl!
Those two black plastic surrounds either end of the heater keep it from coming into contact with the tank.
Your concerns regarding the uneven pockets of heated water are largely taken care of by convection (the warmed water will rise allowing the cold water to come into contact with the heater) while the heater is switched on, and the stirring effect of movement whilst driving around.
Of course, there will always be a propensity for the warm water to slowly make its way to the top, but the overall process is not too profound.
Are these sufficient when used over night to (hopefully) prevent pump hose reel etc.. Freezing too as well as heating water in tank for next day ?
Thanks
Paul
got one of these arrived today.
do I keep the plastic (square bits on) when I place it in the tank to keep off the tank itself?
instructions sau keep the suction pads off the heater element of part of the tube... but the above post states I can keep the plastic bits on.. will they not over heat / melt?
comments / thoughts please
thanks
paul
Hi Paul!
I've used my aquarium heater just as you see it in the picture with no problems whatsoever.
Yeah I just went with that ... Worked a treat ..and if you're right at £1 per day running costs .. Then all the better
Water was nice and warm and tbh .. I was well surprised how it stayed warm all day in side the tank ... Work wise hose was a dream too and thew after was defo better to work with too
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Yeah I just went with that ... Worked a treat ..and if you're right at £1 per day running costs .. Then all the better Water was nice and warm and tbh .. I was well surprised how it stayed warm all day in side the tank ... Work wise hose was a dream too and thew after was defo better to work with too
Paul, you sound like a convert. :)
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Yeah I just went with that ... Worked a treat ..and if you're right at £1 per day running costs .. Then all the better Water was nice and warm and tbh .. I was well surprised how it stayed warm all day in side the tank ... Work wise hose was a dream too and thew after was defo better to work with too
Paul, you sound like a convert. :)
Can't say I'm disappointed .. Really surprised at the heat retention throughout the day too.. It'll work for me as my van is in the drive overnight .. Extension run from garage and plugged in no probs... Sorted
Save me worrying about going hot for the time being ..
And my budget can just about run to a £1 a day heating costs !
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Hi Nick and Paul,
Just had my aquarium heater in for the first time last night. I had it on max (32c) and it heated the water up a bit - enough to make the hoses noticeably more pliable. What temp do you reckon your water is at after an overnight heat (and what size tank have you got)? Have you got a neon light on your heater (as it says there is a neon light in the instructions - I haven't).
The water was warmer, but nowhere near 32c in my 500l tank. I had it suspended vertically in the tank about 3 inches off the bottom - how do you have yours?
Cheers.
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A little tip for you fish tank heater users to help get the water up to temp quicker is to have a small circulation pump (fish tank or other) connected to the hose out of the tank and feeding back into the top of the tank. These pumps are just a few watts and cost nothing to run. Easily run off the 12v battery too. Circulation is the key to heating such a big tank in a shorter time. :)
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Hi Nick and Paul,
Just had my aquarium heater in for the first time last night. I had it on max (32c) and it heated the water up a bit - enough to make the hoses noticeably more pliable. What temp do you reckon your water is at after an overnight heat (and what size tank have you got)? Have you got a neon light on your heater (as it says there is a neon light in the instructions - I haven't).
The water was warmer, but nowhere near 32c in my 500l tank. I had it suspended vertically in the tank about 3 inches off the bottom - how do you have yours?
Cheers.
Hi Carl.
My 1000w aquarium heater usually brings the 500, or so, litres of water up to about 24 to 26ºC in 8 hours. I have a second 1000w heater that I use if I require more heat for any reason.
I place the heat on the bottom of the tank with the two plstic surrounds you see in the pictures preventing any direct contact with the tank.
And, yes, my heater has a red light to indicate that the power is on, and that the thermostat hasn't intervened.
-
A little tip for you fish tank heater users to help get the water up to temp quicker is to have a small circulation pump (fish tank or other) connected to the hose out of the tank and feeding back into the top of the tank. These pumps are just a few watts and cost nothing to run. Easily run off the 12v battery too. Circulation is the key to heating such a big tank in a shorter time. :)
Thanks for the tip whostolemyhair, are you an ichthyologist?
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A little tip for you fish tank heater users to help get the water up to temp quicker is to have a small circulation pump (fish tank or other) connected to the hose out of the tank and feeding back into the top of the tank. These pumps are just a few watts and cost nothing to run. Easily run off the 12v battery too. Circulation is the key to heating such a big tank in a shorter time. :)
If I do this I might as well add a shipwreck and some guppies and be done with it. :)
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Hi Nick and Paul,
Just had my aquarium heater in for the first time last night. I had it on max (32c) and it heated the water up a bit - enough to make the hoses noticeably more pliable. What temp do you reckon your water is at after an overnight heat (and what size tank have you got)? Have you got a neon light on your heater (as it says there is a neon light in the instructions - I haven't).
The water was warmer, but nowhere near 32c in my 500l tank. I had it suspended vertically in the tank about 3 inches off the bottom - how do you have yours?
Cheers.
Hi Carl.
My 1000w aquarium heater usually brings the 500, or so, litres of water up to about 24 to 26ºC in 8 hours. I have a second 1000w heater that I use if I require more heat for any reason.
I place the heat on the bottom of the tank with the two plstic surrounds you see in the pictures preventing any direct contact with the tank.
And, yes, my heater has a red light to indicate that the power is on, and that the thermostat hasn't intervened.
Cheers Nick. What size tank have you got?
-
Hi Nick and Paul,
Just had my aquarium heater in for the first time last night. I had it on max (32c) and it heated the water up a bit - enough to make the hoses noticeably more pliable. What temp do you reckon your water is at after an overnight heat (and what size tank have you got)? Have you got a neon light on your heater (as it says there is a neon light in the instructions - I haven't).
The water was warmer, but nowhere near 32c in my 500l tank. I had it suspended vertically in the tank about 3 inches off the bottom - how do you have yours?
Cheers.
Hi Carl.
My 1000w aquarium heater usually brings the 500, or so, litres of water up to about 24 to 26ºC in 8 hours. I have a second 1000w heater that I use if I require more heat for any reason.
I place the heat on the bottom of the tank with the two plstic surrounds you see in the pictures preventing any direct contact with the tank.
And, yes, my heater has a red light to indicate that the power is on, and that the thermostat hasn't intervened.
Cheers Nick. What size tank have you got?
Twin 500 litres, Carl.
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Hi Nick and Paul,
Just had my aquarium heater in for the first time last night. I had it on max (32c) and it heated the water up a bit - enough to make the hoses noticeably more pliable. What temp do you reckon your water is at after an overnight heat (and what size tank have you got)? Have you got a neon light on your heater (as it says there is a neon light in the instructions - I haven't).
The water was warmer, but nowhere near 32c in my 500l tank. I had it suspended vertically in the tank about 3 inches off the bottom - how do you have yours?
Cheers.
Hi Carl.
My 1000w aquarium heater usually brings the 500, or so, litres of water up to about 24 to 26ºC in 8 hours. I have a second 1000w heater that I use if I require more heat for any reason.
I place the heat on the bottom of the tank with the two plstic surrounds you see in the pictures preventing any direct contact with the tank.
And, yes, my heater has a red light to indicate that the power is on, and that the thermostat hasn't intervened.
Cheers Nick. What size tank have you got?
Twin 500 litres, Carl.
So 1 aquarium heater per tank?
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So 1 aquarium heater per tank?
Yes, if I'm going to need alot of water, but usually I'll isolate one tank via a flow control tap and use either one or two heaters (one, more often than not) in a single 500 litre body of water. If I start to run out of water during the latter part of the day, I'll open the tap and work with the cold at a time in the day when important.
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I came across this today, not used it in ages, but it did work.
I drilled two small holes and fitted a pair of fan jets and then the t piece. This is a Gardiner Scraper and the fan jets. It pops in between the socket and stock. I made this for solar panel rinsing, to get more flow. But its a cheap gizmo for any cleaning, over the top rinsing or just plain fun water fights.
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1389523641_photo.JPG)
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Just followed that Ebay link - it's expired. Google search only found up to 300w heaters. Anyone know if the 1000w are still available and where to get them?
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I keep supa glue and insulation tape to seal joints splits etc.
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Nothing quite as awe-inspiring as some of the ideas on here, but I have been insulating my hoses for about 4 years with this stuff: http://www.pipelagging.com/12mm-solar-pipe-insulation-high-temperature-150c-uv-resistant-external-use-13mm#.UtMlAc4gGSM
I'm still yet to have hoses freeze up on me.
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Hi Ian
Here's the ebay item number: 181301237211
Not my usual supplier but an identical unit, in addition to this I recommend overing the tank with a "Life Blanket" available from Amazon.
Hope this helps
John