Clean It Up
UK Window Cleaning Forum => Window Cleaning Forum => Topic started by: andy east sussex on July 13, 2013, 08:41:44 am
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I want to set up a ro 4040 system as be much better but if I remember rightly if I get 10 inch carbon then sediment then ro then di in to tank or does it do carbon sediment di then ro ?
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Sediment first to protect carbon.
Carbon then r.o.
Personally I would fill the tank from the r.o. and only run it through the d.i as
needed.
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ahh thank you john
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sediment,carbon,RO and DI
better to have pure water in your tank so DI before tank,not after IMA0
if you buy the new filter from gardiners, you don't need the sediment filter anymore
http://www.gardinerpolesystems.co.uk/acatalog/Fibredyne-CFBC-Sediment-Carbon-Pre-Filter-10----NEW-FILTER_CFBC_10.html
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thank you ben and also if I do need booster pump to up the psi does it go before the sediment or just before the ro
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Ben.
Why is it better to have 000 tds water in your tank.
Will give some reasons why I think it isn't.
Firstly I believe a 4040 works best when the filtered water can flow freely away
and is not being forced through a D.I. vessel.
You risk contaminating your resin with tap water when flushing.
You risk getting back pressure from your R.O. to the di vessel reducing the lifespan on
the r.o. and effecting the tds.
My systems puts it through the di as needed and my R.O. is almost 5 years and still getting the water down to 7 ppm from a tap tds of around 240
Changed the resin once in that time and even then it was at 5ppm.
I know a lot on here don't get anywhere near that lifespan.
I know this is only my opinion and its up to each person how they set up their system but I certainly
wouldn't go any other way.
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Ben.
Why is it better to have 000 tds water in your tank.
Will give some reasons why I think it isn't.
Firstly I believe a 4040 works best when the filtered water can flow freely away
and is not being forced through a D.I. vessel.
You risk contaminating your resin with tap water when flushing.
You risk getting back pressure from your R.O. to the di vessel reducing the lifespan on
the r.o. and effecting the tds.
My systems puts it through the di as needed and my R.O. is almost 5 years and still getting the water down to 7 ppm from a tap tds of around 240
Changed the resin once in that time and even then it was at 5ppm.
I know a lot on here don't get anywhere near that lifespan.
I know this is only my opinion and its up to each person how they set up their system but I certainly
wouldn't go any other way.
John,
simply because you know exactly which tds you have when your tank is full, so you know excactly the tds when you clean the windows.
Your way is probably good, Andy has 2 options now ;D
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sorry Andy, i don't know about booster pump
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Ben.
Why is it better to have 000 tds water in your tank.
Will give some reasons why I think it isn't.
Firstly I believe a 4040 works best when the filtered water can flow freely away
and is not being forced through a D.I. vessel.
You risk contaminating your resin with tap water when flushing.
You risk getting back pressure from your R.O. to the di vessel reducing the lifespan on
the r.o. and effecting the tds.
My systems puts it through the di as needed and my R.O. is almost 5 years and still getting the water down to 7 ppm from a tap tds of around 240
Changed the resin once in that time and even then it was at 5ppm.
I know a lot on here don't get anywhere near that lifespan.
I know this is only my opinion and its up to each person how they set up their system but I certainly
wouldn't go any other way.
John,
simply because you know exactly which tds you have when your tank is full, so you know excactly the tds when you clean the windows.
Your way is probably good, Andy has 2 options now ;D
Ben,
Good point, if my tds was higher coming from my r.o. then your way would be a safer option.