Clean It Up
UK Floor Cleaning Forum => Carpet Cleaning Forum => Topic started by: md_cleaning on February 08, 2004, 05:00:00 pm
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Can someone tell me the best way to get the good results I have heard about on upholstery, this would be a big help.
Dave
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A few months ago Dynafoam (john) gave me some good advice.
Excellent pre-spray (subject to pre-test) - especially good for body contact soiling.
Lightly pre-spray (hot) & agitate with tampico brush, then extract.
Alternatively may be removed by terry toweling. I have used this method on antique tapestry which was too frail to survive extraction cleaning even through muslin. this was followed by a spray on B109 Fibre & fabric Rinse + more towel blotting. Results were most impressive on one particular piece - a hand embroydered settle completed in 1560 and as far as can be determined, not previously cleaned.
Definately a must-have!
As i say this is Johns
All the best
Alex
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Just to make sur we are talking about b108 fabric restorer by prochem above .
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Yes Alex b108 thats the one, have you ever used the foam to clean, as this is what I saw at Prochem, but did the 4 in 1 course so not much detail, am going on the full day course soon, so want to know the best option for good results.
Dave
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Dave,
The use of foam as a 'carrier' for a pre-treatment chemical is a way to limit the penetration depth, thereby reducing the risk of over-wetting.
There are several methods of generating the foam other than with specialised machines such as the Von Shraeder.
The easiest ways to use B108 it this manner is either:
a) To apply the product via a trigger or pump-up sprayer fitted with a foaming tip.
or
b) To mix B108 with a high-solids neutral shampoo such as Prochem B105 in a bucket. The foam is then created by whisking or better still by wetting and sqeezing a sponge. the resultant foam is then collected on a tampico or horse hair brush an appied to the upholstery.
When useing this method requires defoamer to be added to the waste tank of the HWE.
The latter method produces a more durable foam.
John.
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I find the foam method with oxi brite really good on cotton prints.
B108 on its own for most other fabrics subject to testing, also i find on very weak or worn fabrics use a net curtain over the damaged area to stop it from ripping ;D
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Nick,
I would add a note of caution as to the use of Oxbrite, in that it is a bleaching agent and old, faded prints may loose some colour and posibly some strenght. Also, since it has a fairly high pH, something like Fibrebuff should be added to the mix.
Protecting weak fabrics with a net curtain dureing extraction does make sense, however a muslin nappy gives better protection and less impeadment to the extraction tool.
John.
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John
Protection netting....I use the black polyester mesh that is used for caravan fly screens... excellent ...and withstands chemical contamination too
Cheers
Derek
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Derek,
Thanks, a great idea - the polyester mesh would be less absorbent than my muslin, and probably less obstructive to the 'blast effect' of the spray jet.
John.
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Hi John you wrote,
mix B108 with a high-solids neutral shampoo such as Prochem B105 in a bucket.
What dilution rates are you using
Regards,
Eric
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Eric,
Both products diluted at their standard strength, but with 'shared' water. This produces a creamier foam but the pH is still 9.
John.
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John,
I may be missing the point a bit here - but why would anyone want to use a shampoo mixture in this day and age ???
By the way did you get my pm on the other unmentionable new board regarding the price of the Recoil.
Nigel
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Hi Nigel,
The only point in adding the shampoo is that it helps hold the pre-treatment at fabric surface. This way be desireable due to substrate problems - indeed I have only used this approach on very dirty antique upholstery, for example with 100 years of penetrated soil sitting in horse-hair.
If I remember correctly, Ron Tilley used to promote the use of this approach as a 'turkish' clean.
Thanks for the PM, yes, the numbers are about what I expected. Have Emailed them a few minutes ago.
Regards,
John