Clean It Up
UK Floor Cleaning Forum => Carpet Cleaning Forum => Topic started by: david@zap-clean on October 30, 2012, 03:40:57 pm
-
I was not very happy with the results of this clean today, but it was the best I could manage.
Wool carpet - builders had brought lots of 150 yr old soot down from the loft (lots). The owner had vac'd months ago - so I arrived after it had been down for ages!
The left hand image was after I had attempted to vac it - which made no visible difference. Wool-X and Split-X didn't touch it. I then pre-sprayed with Orange-X, extracted, then pre-sprayed again, extracted twice more. Spot treated with Prochem Pro.
I asked the customer if he'd though about claiming on his insurance - he wasn't insured...
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1351611627_Be4andAfterPrestburyRd_mini.jpg)
I spent 4.5 hours on this twin staircase!
-
Ultrapac Renovate would of been my choice of chem.
-
Ultrapac Renovate would have been my first choice, always use after chimney sweeps etc with brilliant results.
Mark
-
Ultrapac Renovate would of been my choice of chem.
Bet me to it 8)
-
Are you sure? The real problem was simply the amount of soot in the pile. The soot went right down to the underlay. The only way to truly clean this carpet was to remove it and soak it in a water tank.
-
Gotta agree with Ultrapac Renovate.
-
Ultrapac Renovate For ME 2 ;D
Cheers Tony
-
The black sooty debris in lofts is a culmination of years of soot from chimneys, vehicle exhausts and general grime. It is sometimes extremely difficult to remove even when fresh. Because it is usually acidic in nature it can eat into fibres over time. This along with being ground in by footfall can make it almost impossible to remove,
Those carpets are usually a nightmare to try and get a result on anyway.
Ultrapac as said or Champion are best products.
-
Yeah, OK guys, thanks for that.
I've just read the spec for Prochem Ultrapac Renovate - it's designed specifically for soot/carbon/draft marks.
I'll add some to my next order and give it a go.
-
You did the best you could like you say with what you had on hand and next time you will do better, that's what its all about.
Multisolve with caustic soda is a another option when the carpet is that bad.
-
Another vote for ultrapac... but on these specific type of jobs, also you will notice a hell of a difference the more powerful machine you have for flushing the carpet out
What sort of spec machine are you using? Did you use a wand or hand tool?
-
Ultrapac renovate always,that's what it's made for carbon and soot fire restoration, also good for draught marks any other soiling it's Powerburst, Shockwave
-
I don't know about other guys, but if it was me I'd have gone for Ultrapac Renovate.
:P
-
Don't forget your acid rinse.
-
Very hot ultrapak with a decent dwell but I'm sure you get the idea you may find a post buff would finish it off nicely.
Shaun
-
Ok, it's a different job, but I used Ultrapac Renovate for the first time today:
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1351791248_beforeAfter1024px.jpg)
-
You spelt copyright wrong
-
And you left some soot inthe carpet :D
-
Just out of curiosity, was the job removing the soot, or was that just part of your general carpet clean?
-
nobody would have bonnetted it then? ::)
-
That ultrapac stuff seems to be mostly detergent and D-Limonene as solvent ... the orange x u tried is likely to be D-Limonene based also ...
split x wool x u tried is likely STPP microsliptter
You would probably have got better results with a more regular detergent like formula 90 + your orange x
,scrubbed in with a rotary & white pad and extracted with highish heat ... perhaps finishing with a bonnet .
I don't think u have heat with your machine ? that could be part of the problem ?
-
David don't think I would use that as a before and after
Cheers Tony
-
David why are you using wool-x and spot-x rather than something stronger like shockwave or powerburst if you dont mind me asking?
-
I dont use Ultra pac anymore.
For draft marks and situations like Davids, I use strong dose of enzall and citrus contrate together (could also try power burst and citrus concentrate together). Then rinse with the usual formula 90 in the tank (i always use f90 as a rinse) The results are always 100%.
Did a rich client a couple of years a go (lives in a very modest house but owns over 30 properties and goes off skiing in France 6 months of the year) and I removed some draft marks that a previous carpet cleaner refused to do as they told him that trying to remove the draught marks only makes them worse! ;D
Needles to say that customer now gives me alot of work! ;D
Tony
-
You spelt copyright wrong
My mistake, thanks for spotting that.
-
Just out of curiosity, was the job removing the soot, or was that just part of your general carpet clean?
I cleaned the whole carpet with renovate. There were some very dark draft marks, small amounts of soot all over it, traffic lane dirt - and the usual dark patches by the sofa and chairs.
I then had to spot treat the multiple wine/coffee/??? stains. Though, as Paul Moss says 'I did leave some soot behind' - which wasn't coming out with rotavate.
The customer was very pleased with the result.
-
David why are you using wool-x and spot-x rather than something stronger like shockwave or powerburst if you dont mind me asking?
Joe, I used rotavate on this job. I use wool-X and split-X routinely on other jobs though.
I'm fairly new to this game and I'm experimenting with different solutions. Just yesterday I received the £60 sample pack from solutions (a bargain) - just in the nick of time as I had a call-back on a chair I'd cleaned earlier in the week that still had some neck oil showing after it had dried out - spot-sorted in 10 mins.
-
That ultrapac stuff seems to be mostly detergent and D-Limonene as solvent ... the orange x u tried is likely to be D-Limonene based also ...
split x wool x u tried is likely STPP microsliptter
You would probably have got better results with a more regular detergent like formula 90 + your orange x
,scrubbed in with a rotary & white pad and extracted with highish heat ... perhaps finishing with a bonnet .
I don't think u have heat with your machine ? that could be part of the problem ?
I don't (yet) have a bonnet cleaner, and I don't have an in-line heater either. I did use very hot tap water for the pre-spray and in the rinse with this job though.
I know I need to get a bonnet cleaner soon. I can't believe how much money I've had to spend since I 'launched' this business! Bonnet cleaning is on my list of 'must-haves'. I'm keeping an eye on the second hand market.