Clean It Up
UK General Cleaning Forum => General Cleaning Forum => Topic started by: Kenny83 on April 14, 2012, 12:01:49 am
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I'm converting from using acrylic sealers to harder wearing, more quality PU like resiblock etc, i know about the implications involved with installing but just wondered if anyone else uses resiblock / PU and wondered how they get on compared to acrylic... any nightmares, problems, or even successes so good you would never go back to acrylic?
one thing that i would like to know is if anyones ever tried sraying a PU as ive heard it can't be done, i have a gloria type / chapin industrial sprayer but been told that PU would clog up, my idea is that it's because once the PU sets in the sealer after you've finnished using it that it impossible to remove, so renders the sprayer useless after one job? anyone spray PU?
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£25 I gave her the other week for her acrylics and now she wants them done again. She can f*** off and settle for in-fills.
I bite my nails mate.
;)
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£25 I gave her the other week for her acrylics and now she wants them done again. She can f*** off and settle for in-fills.
I bite my nails mate.
you idiot ;D
My girlfriend gets PU all the way ;D
;)
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never tried gloria with resiblok etc, they reckon its a no no.
xylene wont touch it. personally there all pap, be it P*Cs SMar**eal or Res*%lock.
you clean/sand. get custie to source sealer and you appLY @ cost. NO RISK.
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never tried gloria with resiblok etc, they reckon its a no no.
xylene wont touch it. personally there all pap, be it P*Cs SMar**eal or Res*%lock.
you clean/sand. get custie to source sealer and you appLY @ cost. NO RISK.
True, i tried my chapin the other day with resiblock and it worked mint, just need to clean it out after EVERY use properly as xylene won;t touch it as you say... but only when it's set as it's so chemically resistant.. which is why it's far superior to any acrylic, clean the sprayer out straight after a job and it's fine, still need to roll the second coat on to flood the joints properly though, but much quicker and no pick up of sand as the 1st coat holds it down, i disagree about all sealers being poop though, just acrylics are crap in my opinion as they don't last more than 1 or 2 years, with resiblock i can go back in 2 years and clean and the sand will still be rock hard, thus the customer will find it cheaper in the long run as there will be not as much need to sand, just a top up coat 3 - 5 years later, acrylics (pics, smartseal, adseal are fine for pattern concrete but in my opinion are just not up to the job for block paving long term... it's just the way I'm trying to go now I think... going for quality as opposed to price, but if the customer wants a job doing on price i can do that but I just let them know it won't be my fault when it looks a mess in 18 months time after they've shelled out X amount... thye seem to be going for the PU's on that basis.
What dp you use mate?
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ive talked my self out of 75% of sealing jobs. i dont need the greif. get it re-cleaned every
18mths far cheaper and custie likes my honesty. yea poly ur sealers are rolls royce in the sealing
game. but im looking out side as i type and its rained for nearly 3wks. when do you re=sand never mind seal. wi resi block @ £202 per 25 litre drum + courior you dont want to be going backdue too moisture probs in block/sand. yeah acrylic good for patt concrete, got one to re tint tomorrow. but weather got the job fooked.
so will jump onto couple little patios that want doing. ;D in the pub for 1pm :P