Clean It Up
UK Floor Cleaning Forum => Carpet Cleaning Forum => Topic started by: Paul Clapham on March 09, 2012, 04:41:13 pm
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I don't clean many sofa's ( I have done the Cleansmart course) but when I do I charge around £20 / £25 per seat.
I would like to start cleaning Leather sofas as most of my clients seem to have them, (I always keep a note on my XL spread sheets about what kind of sofa they have , stone or tile floor etc for future marketing ) , I have purchased some leather cleaning products and have used them at home and on some friends all with good results.
A client asked me today to clean hers , I did'nt give a price, I suggested I do a test area clean when I am there next week , to see if she is happy with it, I think there could be a "perceived added value" when cleaning a Leather sofa as to an upholstered one, and so you may be able to charge more ?
What do you guys think ?, can you charge a little more or do you charge to same as upholstery sofa's ?
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A straight clean probably not, but it depends on how you sell it I suppose. Obviously if there is some minor restoration work ( and there usually is something you can point out) then I would have thought this will significantly boost the job price.
I would just do a mailshot to everyone you have on your database with a very attractive £15-£20? clean and protect price and see what comes of that.
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You can clean a leather suite in 60-90 minutes usually, with the right know-how and practice. Almost zero equipment costs, product costs maybe £4.
I personally price a simple leather "clean" a bit lower than fabric upholstery, which takes longer and has higher associated costs.
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Ive always found customers expect to pay more for a leather suite clean and could never fathom out why.
For some reason its perceived that leather is more specialized than fabric cleaning.
I find cleaning leather quicker and easier than a fabric suite & yet invariably get more money for it.
Just one of lifes conundrums I suppose :)
Steve
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I charge for 5 seats £155 if that answers your question.
Shaun
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Don't do a test area before confirming the price, if you leave a clean patch your pushing them to go for the clean
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Going by the post, I can only presume that you would be a novice in this area?
Why take the risk in cleaning leather - unless you know your types of leather and how to rectify a problem should it arise?
There are problems that can hit you like a tone of bricks - its not a case of it not happening, its a case of when it does!
I would book a course tbh and then you will be confident in taking care of clients leather items. Apologies for putting a downer on things, but reality can strike at the worst time, and you could be knackered.
Cheers
Kev
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Kev's right you learn a load on a leather course best bit of money you can spend.
Shaun
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Thanks guys, I agree with you about training and I will be doing a course in a couple of months time.
The only reason I am going to do a test area clean for the client is she is going to give the sofa away and buy a new one in the spring, but she would like it to be freshened up before she give it away, the best thing is she has been cleaning the sofa with bleach !
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Don't touch it then. She's prob taken the top coat off, you don't want to own it ::)
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Paul
This happened to me top coat just wiped away with a sponge had to get a upholsterer in to rectify dont touch as even if you test as I did in when you come to a area that the top coat has degraded then you are praying for an understanding customer
Jim
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You will get this a lot unfortunately. They clean them themselves till 'it's gone sticky' then you get the call.
On a number of occasions I've tried to explain it needs restoring and they have told me no it just needs a good clean. Oh well the customer is always right but luckily she's not mine.
If you haven't been on a course (which ain't cheap) then why not leave it for now and focus on carpets.
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the best thing is she has been cleaning the sofa with bleach !
When household “bleach” is used for leather cleaning and assuming that it’s non-absorbent with solution pooling on the surface. Then common finish damages like “streaks or stickiness is apparent. Yellowing from the side-effects of bleach is the result of below surface leather structure denaturing; if the leather is absorbent especially through stitching holes or micro-cracks, is another subject for discussion.
These above finish side-effect problems if any are beyond cleaning and need to be rectified prior to cleaning.
All alkaline or alcohol based products when used will further accentuate or worsen these problems.
Only acidic products are recommended to save this situation.
And the sequence of procedure recommended is as follows:
1] Rectification for Alkaline Overexposure Side-Effects:
A pH 2.0 leather safe acidifier is used to return the finish chemistry integrity resulting in a tackiness-free squeaky feel or streaks eliminated.
2] Leather Safe Cleaning:
Leather-safe cleaners with pH value of between 3 and 5 to remove foreign soiling are highly recommended.
3] Topcoat Refinishing:
Matching topcoat refinishing to re-strengthen the leather finish is highly recommended.
4] Non-Stick Protection:
Non-stick, rub-resistant, buttery-feel, leather-scented protection is highly recommended.
Roger Koh
info@leatherdoctor.com
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Hi Roger
I know you contacted me a couple of years ago or so now about maybe getting your system established here in the UK, have you found anyone yet? Just curious to know if your unique setup has caught on as yet?
Dont get me wrong, I enjoy your posts (especially when you were more on the boards a while ago) but wondered if anyone has actually got the gist of your in-depth practices on the different rectification methods of leather restoration/repairs that you do.
Its always facinated me how/why people dont quite get your way of doing things (me included!), but do wonder if it is only really aimed at those who can sort of undersdand you and have a very high end client base?
Anyway, good luck and keep trying - you never know.
Cheers
Kev
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Its always facinated me how/why people dont quite get your way of doing things (me included!), but do wonder if it is only really aimed at those who can sort of undersdand you and have a very high end client base?
Thanks for your continuous interest in the Leather Doctor® system.
It is simpler than you think.
With DIY kits, training is not a prerequisite; understanding the situation at hand is more important than understanding me.
Certainly a very high end client base is an added bonus; besides furniture’s, don’t overlook their cars leather interiors, garments, handbags, shoes, equestrian, extended into their offices, luxury planes and yacht.
Anyway, take a look at these pictures…
Its dog peed on this 1940 French style aniline leather sofa.
This leather condition easily becomes "slimy" when wet and "sticky" when damp due to alkaline pH overexposure.
Anyone has a clue to solve this urine contamination made worst with household alkaline solution back to the original?
#1
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/6-5.jpg)
#2
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/1-15.jpg)
#3 Here is the stain. The dark part is stiffer than the unaffected area
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/2-16.jpg)
#4 Close-up
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/3-13.jpg)
#5 Water beads up initially, but then soaks in when massaged.
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/4-13.jpg)
#6 Water – 5 minutes after application.
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/5-9.jpg)
Roger Koh
info@leatherdoctor.com
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Hey,
Maybe send those pics to LTT they are pretty good with advising on most things leather! :)
Abi
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Yeah Roger, have a word with Judy, see what the experts say!
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Save your replies. He is an expert. I remember his posts really in depth.
It's a rhetorical question. Isn't it ?
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Yeah Roger, have a word with Judy, see what the experts say!
How on earth can you speak with your tongue so far in your cheek Jim ??
;D ;D ;D
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Good to see a post from you Roger. That one's a nightmare, but no doubt you will get a result be degreasing and re hydrating. Over here the easy approach would be taken, ie, re upholstery which is obviously beyond the average carpet / upholstery cleaners.
The viability of such a restoration in terms of time, handling, materials and actual time spent on the work makes it a non starter even for a relatively expensive item.
So it's unlikely anyone in the UK would consider it.
I know all of the materials can be sourced in the UK but most members of this and other forums don't have the premises or the set up to carry out such work.
As far as the suite shown in this post is concerned I believe the de hydration is so bad the leather fibres are barely holding together and would require a large fexible patch on the back of the seats to stop splitting.
I know there are products which may fill and bind the deep cracks but I've never used them.
Looking forward to the end result and wishing I was a little younger with the knowledge and the pruducts available today.
Rob
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Robert
I think you will find that there are plenty of people in the UK who are taking on this kind of work and very successfully too - probably not on this forum though.
Thats a nice piece of furniture Roger - have just restored some very nice dining chairs from about the same era.
On older furniture such as this it is always better to aim to restore the leather to keep the aesthetics of the piece rather than replacing panels which is not always an option as the panel would not match the others - obviously on more modern leather panel replacement would probably be the case. Our technicians always work closely with a local upholsterer who they can split the work with should the need arise
Cheers
Judyb
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Hello Judy.
As the leather on the suite shown has all but fallen apart and would require to have many hours spent on it and it would also require to be taken away to work on the cost would be enormous and therefore I believe non viable as a restoration job.
I'm well aware there are people and products which could greatly improve the appearance of these items but it would have to be stripped from the frame in order to add strength and avoid the deep cracks becoming splits.
I carried out a repair on a similarly " wrecked " chair about four years ago as an exercise and without charge as I deemed it to be experimental and for a relative. On that occasion I got a good result but I'd only worked on the top surface. Unfortunately I never kept track of the chair so don't know how long the repair lasted.
Would be interesting to see some examples of similar restorations from the people you mention.
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Let's continue this discussion from the new thread...
How to restore dog pee damages on an old piece of aniline leather sofa?
Roger Koh
Sorry any form of advertising has to be paid for. Moderator
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Roger certainly gets some challenges.
I for one would love to see the end result, and the process that he used to rectify such damage.
By seeing problems on a forum, and having it explained fully, I believe, tremendously helps those that may be searching for a better education be it carpet or upholstery cleaning, leather repairs, or any other segment that we find ourselves being faced with daily.
I can't see much point in simply posting photos and not naming products that are used to give the desired
results.
Maybe a personal email would be the way to inquire. ??
Shorty.