Clean It Up
UK Window Cleaning Forum => Window Cleaning Forum => Topic started by: J. Domingos on March 03, 2012, 12:21:41 am
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...with a new design, a Great Pump Controller. Maybe have no brand name,... but it's a strong and reliable piece of equipment
have a look,... and happy biding. :)
- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300672216939?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649#ht_731wt_1344
- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300672220183?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649#ht_793wt_1344
during this weekend I will put on sale, what I call Pole Kits ... a must have accessory for your pole, to make your everyday live more easy and to save money to. (see, Seller Information... under of - See other items) ;) ;D
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I know soon... you will see me on YouTube !!! ;) ;D
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that is a good price
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So how long is the warranty?
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fifteen amp fuse and it runs to 30 amps? How does that work then?
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that is a good price
That's not the price - reserve no met?
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Cheecky, looks similar to one of these to me
http://www.maplin.co.uk/panel-mounted-speed-regulator-module-30310
;D
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Cheecky, looks similar to one of these to me
http://www.maplin.co.uk/panel-mounted-speed-regulator-module-30310
;D
Those are only 3A,.. they might handle a backpack pump at a push
WFP pumps can draw up to 8A,.. though in everyday use they rarely use more than half that.
I'm guessing that this 30A one doesn't have reverse polarity protection?
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Cheecky, looks similar to one of these to me
http://www.maplin.co.uk/panel-mounted-speed-regulator-module-30310
;D
Those are only 3A,.. they might handle a backpack pump at a push
WFP pumps can draw up to 8A,.. though in everyday use they rarely use more than half that.
I'm guessing that this 30A one doesn't have reverse polarity protection?
Can you smell something burning? ;D
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this Controller works like a worse.
;D ;D
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To be honest,.. I'd actually prefer one of these controllers to many of the digi ones currently available, especially at the price.
The tech is simple, its just a PWM speed controller in a waterproof box,.. no messing with calibration settings, no battery saving cut out -- it controls pump speed in the most simple way & can't really go wrong. If it does go wrong, every single component is readily available off ebay so its easy to fix.
It does look a bit DIY though,....
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this Controller works like a worse.
;D ;D
Freudien slip ;D
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Will this work with Jose and Josb?
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And i do apologise for being frivolous.
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And so i have entered a bid,might bid a bit more if i understood them a little more.Would i be right in thinking the pump needs to use its own pressure switch to cut power when the flow is turned off by a tap etc. And if so does that mean a relay is required to stop the switch arcing and eventually burning out?
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And so i have entered a bid,might bid a bit more if i understood them a little more.Would i be right in thinking the pump needs to use its own pressure switch to cut power when the flow is turned off by a tap etc. And if so does that mean a relay is required to stop the switch arcing and eventually burning out?
Peter Fogwell recommends using a relay to protect the pressure switch.
Personally i've never bothered because you can replace a Shurflo pressure switch in 15 mins at a cost of less than £2.
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So if you have this controller with a pump and lets say you are using a pole tap.When flow is stopped the pump pressure switch cuts power.But for how long before the pump cycles and tries to start again.This happens with the varistream but by adjusting the pressure cut off you can make this a gentle affair with less draw on the battery.I`m interested to know the behaviour of the pump pressure switch in operation, as in, does it try to charge off with a head of steam before it curtails itself and hence maybe draw a lot of current each time?
I use a varistream under the impression they are an improvement on whats gone before so can`t work out whether the aforementioned set up is an improvement or a step backwards with the only benefit of perhaps saving a few quid.
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Honestly,.. I know the pressure switch idea sounds like a step backwards, but it really isn't.
The pressure switch cuts out when it reaches the set pressure. Its a mechanical switch so it doesn't "pulse" or anything, just sits there till the pressure drops again and then immediately cuts back in. There's no calibrating, no difference in operating in hot or cold weather,.. its not an elegant solution, but it does work really well.
The only reason the pump will cycle with this setup is if you have a leak somewhere in the system.
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Good to know,thanks for that Nathanael.
P.S. I`m keeping stum until later in the week but i may find myself on here singing the praises of the Master Guild Of Window Cleaners.
Though i will say now to anyone,join !
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I have the latest analogue controller from Spring that utilizes the pump switch for dead end setting. It seems better than the varistream in that the pressure range so far seems to be wider. My Varistream couldn't put enough pressure in the system first thing in the morning on cold days with 100m of 6mm hose.
Having an analogue dial means the settings can be changed much faster ie. with hot water and a ballooning hose the pressure can be backed off in a second instead of faffing around pressing two buttons at once.
Early days, but should give it a good test in the week.
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Ive just brought one of those new spring controllers as well,
Hoping that i will be able to reduce pressure build up, when using hot.
Recieved it yesterday but not fitted it yet
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:) ditto. be interested to see how you get on. I was hoping it might prevent pressure build up, I'm not convinced yet that it will with hot water. That's down to hose design in my opinion. Works well with cold though.
The problem I've found in the past is that hot water hardens normal hose making it difficult to use when you want to switch to cold. Stay hot all the time and the pressure settings can probably be kept the same.
The best method for hot would of course be a bypass back to the tank, pressure settings then become less important.
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I'm wondering where this controler that J. Domingos is pushing is made?
Also, what about the gaurantee? There's no mention of one but if it's that good and that reliable.... yet no gaurantee?
He gives his 4 years of experience as the warranty, which means nothing, and says it's very reliable but has only been using this controler for a few months and now he's selling them.
Also, he says it's handmade? What's that got to do with it and who made it anyway?
Sorry J.Domingos, I won't be buying one.
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I understand all your concerns, and thank's for your honest comments. My point is... Window Cleaning it's not and never was Rocket Science. The thing is, If they are so simple why so expensive ? For a Controller be able to read pressure, and flow the cost will be thousands, and for what ? our job is only cleaning windows it's not ? So why complicated ?
Like Nathanael Jones said, if no leaks somewhere in the system... everything works fine. Before I start using these controllers for a long time I used two different brands and noticed the pumps pulse and there was no leakage in the system, so I started my research, I found this solution ..., besides being simple it's inexpensive and efficient, and that is the point isn't ?
I'm here to help... if I can !
Soon I will put something on Youtube to make the things more clear. Thank's again.
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The question of a gaurantee is not rocket science either.
So how long is the gaurantee then?
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Cheecky, looks similar to one of these to me
http://www.maplin.co.uk/panel-mounted-speed-regulator-module-30310
;D
Those are only 3A,.. they might handle a backpack pump at a push
Powers my shurflo pump all day every day pumping 2 reels and has done so for getting on near a year now.
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The ones from Maplin, are not power enough for a 100psi pump, normally this kind of pump works with 9.5amp. That's why I'm working on the way to decrease from 30amps to 15amps. Using something less can compromise the way the pump works (torque), that's why the fumes :'( . Warranty... well first of all I'm a window cleaner, and if it's not good for me I don't give or even sale for anybody. Thank's again.
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Powers my 100psi fine
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The ones from Maplin, are not power enough for a 100psi pump, normally this kind of pump works with 9.5amp. That's why I'm working on the way to decrease from 30amps to 15amps. Using something less can compromise the way the pump works (torque), that's why the fumes :'( . Warranty... well first of all I'm a window cleaner, and if it's not good for me I don't give or even sale for anybody. Thank's again.
So, there is no gaurantee. That's not mentioned on your ebay website although you imply it. You didn't answer the question first time round, didn't answer it the second time and have tried to avoid it the third time around. That is no way to do business.
So if I, or someone, bought one and it packed up 4 weeks later, what would you do?
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I will discuss the failure and than replace it, if not the buyer fault.
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As, I said earlier in this topic, to illustrate my point why to pay between £3.000 - £7.000, 4040 RO Mobile Cart, if I can make it with £1.500, and with better components ?
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I will discuss the failure and than replace it, if not the buyer fault.
So it does have a gaurantee as such. If it breaks due to faulty manufacture then you will replace it.
Jeeeeez. Why didn't you say that straight off?
I might give one a try then.
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what the point of selling, without a bit of fight. ;D ;)
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I understand all your concerns, and thank's for your honest comments. My point is... Window Cleaning it's not and never was Rocket Science. The thing is, If they are so simple why so expensive ? For a Controller be able to read pressure, and flow the cost will be thousands, and for what ? our job is only cleaning windows it's not ? So why complicated ?
Like Nathanael Jones said, if no leaks somewhere in the system... everything works fine. Before I start using these controllers for a long time I used two different brands and noticed the pumps pulse and there was no leakage in the system, so I started my research, I found this solution ..., besides being simple it's inexpensive and efficient, and that is the point isn't ?
I'm here to help... if I can !
Soon I will put something on Youtube to make the things more clear. Thank's again.
You have done well in making a controller.
But your remark highlighted in red, is incorrect, most controllers the varistream for instance does control flow and cut off
pressure and do not cost thousands about £80.
But sometimes the more simple the controller is, the less to go wrong.
Well Done.
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Still no price though ??? - reserve not met.
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So what is the reserve price J Domingos?
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But hang on a sec Roy,
In the notes below the ad he has the following; If your water pump comes with a pressure switch build on it, better, adds more protection, and switch off the Controller every time you turn off the flow on your pole
What he is saying here is that you don't need a pressure switch on the pump to work his controller - a built in pressure switch adds more protection.
The new Spring analogue controller has 2 controls, a flow control and an electronic pressure control. They also suggest that the controller is wired through the pumps mechanical pressure switch for added protection, but the idea is that the electronics cut the pressure before the mechanical pressure switch does.
So what happens if you don't have a pressure switch on your pump? What happens if you turn the tap off for a while?
Spruce
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i cut my pressure switch off to fit varistream
Is that right?
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i cut my pressure switch off to fit varistream
Is that right?
Yes, the Varistream was designed to bypass the pressure switch and you set the pressure electronically.
The only thing that this controller does is slow the pump down. It doesn't regulate the pressure from what I see. So in my opinion this controller will just let the pump keep on running if you didn't put it through a pressure switch. I would have to conclude then that this pump would build up pressure and eventually stall and burn itself out or blow one of the hose connectors off.
I don't want to slate this person's efforts, but I feel that he has come up with an idea to make an analogue controller because so many are having problems with the digital ones. I don't believe he actually understands the concept behind how a controller works. It would then appear to me that he has 'borrowed' some of Spring's wording for his advert. (Connected to a pressure switch will add further protection).
I'm all for guy's coming up with new and innovative solutions to make our job easier, but I don't believe that this is one of them.
I see that he sold a Gardiner Eco Flow controller on Ebay that ended in the 19th of Jan for £17.01 with £2.00 postage. Not sure what happened but the listing was ended as he received his right price???
He had also been using that controller for more than a year with the same pump and was very reliable. So he's been using 2 controllers for a year that have been very reliable.
This controller has to be used with the pump's pressure switch IMHO.
Spruce
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But hang on a sec Roy,
In the notes below the ad he has the following; If your water pump comes with a pressure switch build on it, better, adds more protection, and switch off the Controller every time you turn off the flow on your pole
What he is saying here is that you don't need a pressure switch on the pump to work his controller - a built in pressure switch adds more protection.
The new Spring analogue controller has 2 controls, a flow control and an electronic pressure control. They also suggest that the controller is wired through the pumps mechanical pressure switch for added protection, but the idea is that the electronics cut the pressure before the mechanical pressure switch does.
So what happens if you don't have a pressure switch on your pump? What happens if you turn the tap off for a while?
Spruce
Yes I know, what I meant was he said to have a controller with both would cost thousands, but they don't.
Roy
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Ok. Fair enough,... however seems to me the only way in our systems to read pressure it's not the controller itself, but the mechanic adjustment, (little screw) inside the pressure switch on our pumps... you can adjust it, but please don't do it, because was calibrated in the factory and can damage the pump. To read any flow the system needs a kind of sensor, and they are not cheap. So end of this story, a tap on your pole, and a controller to set up the pump, it's the simplest way.
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I would rather pay £100 for something tried and tested , than something homemade with a guarantee of been a window cleaner for 4 yrs . MIKE
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I would rather pay £100 for something tried and tested , than something homemade with a guarantee of been a window cleaner for 4 yrs . MIKE
Hi Mike
As I said earlier, I don't believe Mr Domingos understands how a controller is designed and from the previous replies he not interested in listening to anyone's opinion either.
.... seems to me the only way in our systems to read pressure it's not the controller itself, but the mechanic adjustment, (little screw) inside the pressure switch on our pumps... you can adjust it, but please don't do it, because was calibrated in the factory and can damage the pump. To read any flow the system needs a kind of sensor, and they are not cheap. So end of this story, a tap on your pole, and a controller to set up the pump, it's the simplest way.
He has convinced himself that it will work, made a couple, and then advertised them on Ebay. To get things moving he then puts a cheeky post on here with the heading - A great Water Pump Controller... to promote his own product.
To borrow one of Gold's sayings - he has shot an arrow at the barn door and then painted the target around the arrow afterwards.
However, I see that his listing has attracted 1 bid, so there is someone else out there who doesn't understand controllers either and that has not seen this thread.
As I said earlier, I'm all for new ideas and products to help us make life easier, but IMHO this isn't one of them. Like you I would go for something that costs more from a reputable company.
Spruce.
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this one looks well made, any better?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pump-flow-controller-water-fed-pole-window-cleaning-/160755157170?_trksid=p4340.m185&_trkparms=algo%3DDLSL%252BSIC.NPJS%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BUA%26otn%3D10%26pmod%3D300652283849%252B300652283849%26po%3D%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D6793973490427492146#ht_500wt_1287
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As I said earlier, I don't believe Mr Domingos understands how a controller is designed and from the previous replies he not interested in listening to anyone's opinion either.
Spruce,.. i'm thinking it might be you who doesn't really understand. Have you ever used a controller without dead end detection? I have, and actually prefer it! I'm currently using an old analog pure freedom controller which does not have dead end detection, it just relies on the pumps pressure switch. The controller & pump are both near 5 years old & have never let me down once!
While I think his controller is a bit too ugly for me to buy personally,.. the electronics behind these controllers are VERY simple. The only difference between how J domingos controller & the ones you're used to work,is that his does not use dead end detection --- and that isn't a bad thing!!
Look back over the forum & count how many posts there are about controller calibration problems, pressure problems, working with 8mm hose but not 6mm etc etc. Then compare that to the number of "My pressure switch has broken" posts,.. pressure switches win I assure you!
Pressure switches are the way the pumps are designed to work, and its a system that works flawlessly & with a lot less problems & hassles than dead end detection causes.
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this one looks well made, any better?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pump-flow-controller-water-fed-pole-window-cleaning-/160755157170?_trksid=p4340.m185&_trkparms=algo%3DDLSL%252BSIC.NPJS%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BUA%26otn%3D10%26pmod%3D300652283849%252B300652283849%26po%3D%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D6793973490427492146#ht_500wt_1287
I think this is the same idea as Mr Domingos' unit. I see he has competition.
I've sent a question to ask about pressure setting on this unit so await a reply.
Personally, I think they have seen a gap in the market for an analogue controller and jumped in to make one without understanding all the principles behind neccessity for it.
If you want to buy an analogue controller, then the new Spring controller Gardiners and a few others have in stock seems to tick the boxes. Its a straight forward manual speed/flow controller with a manually adjustable electronic pressure regulator in one.
I'd spend £100.00 for one of those than waste £50.00 on one of these.
It's harsh, but that's the reality.
Spruce
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That one looks much better,.. but still not right.
I've always thought that having a controller that has to be opened up to either secure it to the van plylining or to change a fuse is a bit dopey. Gaskets can be lost or not replaced in their perfect position,.. every time you open the unit there's a small chance it won't be waterproof when you close it again. So I like the enclosure that doesn't need to be opened (I have a couple of these myself for a similar project at the mo) to secure this to the van wall,.. but why not have the fuse externally????
I'd go as far as potting/encapsulating all the internal electronics to keep the moisture out as well,..
this one looks well made, any better?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pump-flow-controller-water-fed-pole-window-cleaning-/160755157170?_trksid=p4340.m185&_trkparms=algo%3DDLSL%252BSIC.NPJS%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BUA%26otn%3D10%26pmod%3D300652283849%252B300652283849%26po%3D%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D6793973490427492146#ht_500wt_1287
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I THINK THAT MR DOMINGOS UNIT LOOKS AND WILL PROB WORK OK TOO, BUT NEEDS TO BE AROUND THE £25-£30 MARK TO TEMPT ME AWAY FROM THE MAINSTREAM OPTIONS.
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As I said earlier, I don't believe Mr Domingos understands how a controller is designed and from the previous replies he not interested in listening to anyone's opinion either.
Spruce,.. i'm thinking it might be you who doesn't really understand. Have you ever used a controller without dead end detection? I have, and actually prefer it! I'm currently using an old analog pure freedom controller which does not have dead end detection, it just relies on the pumps pressure switch. The controller & pump are both near 5 years old & have never let me down once!
While I think his controller is a bit too ugly for me to buy personally,.. the electronics behind these controllers are VERY simple. The only difference between how J domingos controller & the ones you're used to work,is that his does not use dead end detection --- and that isn't a bad thing!!
Look back over the forum & count how many posts there are about controller calibration problems, pressure problems, working with 8mm hose but not 6mm etc etc. Then compare that to the number of "My pressure switch has broken" posts,.. pressure switches win I assure you!
Pressure switches are the way the pumps are designed to work, and its a system that works flawlessly & with a lot less problems & hassles than dead end detection causes.
Hi Nat
To answer your question honestly - no I haven't.
We originally used Shurflo pumps on there own and we kept burning out switches as the pumps kept cycling. We didn't know about cheap microswitch replacements from Maplins then. Williamsons supplied me a 3.8 litre pump to try to reduce cycling on our system, but once we got the Mk2 analogue Varistreams, our problems stopped.
My gripe with Mr Domingos is that he doesn't understand how the pressure switch works. As I highlighted earlier, he recommends the controller be connected through the pressure switch as added protection. So he is saying that you actually don't need to have it wired through the pressure switch at all (if your pump hasn't got one). Then I ask how he envisages switching the pump off when the tap is turned off?
IMHO he is winging his way through this which doesn't help others who have no experience with controllers.
Actually, had he made it clear from the begining how it works I wouldn't have thought anything more of it. I wouldn't have bought one due to the experience we had with failed switches, but I know there are plenty out there, including you, who prefer their systems to work this way. That's fine.
Spruce
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...with a new design, a Great Pump Controller. Maybe have no brand name,... but it's a strong and reliable piece of equipment
have a look,... and happy biding. :)
- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300672216939?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649#ht_731wt_1344
- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300672220183?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649#ht_793wt_1344
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-30A-DC-Motor-Speed-Control-PWM-HHO-RC-Controller-/290516868326?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item43a4279ce6
during this weekend I will put on sale, what I call Pole Kits ... a must have accessory for your pole, to make your everyday live more easy and to save money to. (see, Seller Information... under of - See other items) ;) ;D
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-30A-DC-Motor-Speed-Control-PWM-HHO-RC-Controller-/290516868326?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item43a4279ce6 this is the same one
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-30A-DC-Motor-Speed-Control-PWM-HHO-RC-Controller-/290516868326?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item43a4279ce6 this is the same one
Certainly seems that way.
So, perhaps the box of tricks on offer is just a just variable rheostat for the motor?
And when the tap on the hose is switched off, the pump, when it reaches it's pressure cut off point, does it's job.
Deliberately confuse the two as one, with a muddled writeup, and lo and behold, a flow controler.
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...with a new design, a Great Pump Controller. Maybe have no brand name,... but it's a strong and reliable piece of equipment
have a look,... and happy biding. :)
- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300672216939?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649#ht_731wt_1344
- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300672220183?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649#ht_793wt_1344
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-30A-DC-Motor-Speed-Control-PWM-HHO-RC-Controller-/290516868326?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item43a4279ce6
during this weekend I will put on sale, what I call Pole Kits ... a must have accessory for your pole, to make your everyday live more easy and to save money to. (see, Seller Information... under of - See other items) ;) ;D
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-30A-DC-Motor-Speed-Control-PWM-HHO-RC-Controller-/290516868326?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item43a4279ce6 this is the same one
Not unless the components are taken out of that box as the box is 126mm wide.
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this one looks well made, any better?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pump-flow-controller-water-fed-pole-window-cleaning-/160755157170?_trksid=p4340.m185&_trkparms=algo%3DDLSL%252BSIC.NPJS%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BUA%26otn%3D10%26pmod%3D300652283849%252B300652283849%26po%3D%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D6793973490427492146#ht_500wt_1287
Its a speed controller so you connect the unit up via your pumps existing pressure switch as use it like Nat does. This time the Ebay site's owner did seem to know what he was talking about :)
Spruce
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Nathaniel
If you ever bring a flow controller to the market I would be interested.
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Nathaniel
If you ever bring a flow controller to the market I would be interested.
I'm working on 2 ranges at the moment (been in development for near 2 years now).
The first range will be fancy & digital, and will have models from the most basic controller up to ones with frost protection & remote control features built in.
The second range will be analog, but again with basic/frost protect/remote control models.
NONE of the controllers I'm getting built will feature dead end detection,.. I just feel its a very complex solution to a very simple problem, & pressure switches just work better. My next campaign will be to convince you all that 60psi pumps are better suited to WFP than 100psi ones!
Prices for controllers will start at £53.50 +P&P for the basic analog model, and all units will come with a 12 month warranty, though I don't expect it to be used very often as these units should be almost bomb proof the way I'm getting them built. ;D
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I much prefer DE detection rather than the pumps pressure switch. I can set DE MUCH more accurately on a varistream & also alter it much easier too.
My MKI digital varistream works flawlessly, never missed a beat in about 4+ years!
I'm led to believe though that the newest versions of the Varistream are not as good?
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Nathaniel
If you ever bring a flow controller to the market I would be interested.
I'm working on 2 ranges at the moment (been in development for near 2 years now).
The first range will be fancy & digital, and will have models from the most basic controller up to ones with frost protection & remote control features built in.
The second range will be analog, but again with basic/frost protect/remote control models.
NONE of the controllers I'm getting built will feature dead end detection,.. I just feel its a very complex solution to a very simple problem, & pressure switches just work better. My next campaign will be to convince you all that 60psi pumps are better suited to WFP than 100psi ones!
Prices for controllers will start at £53.50 +P&P for the basic analog model, and all units will come with a 12 month warranty, though I don't expect it to be used very often as these units should be almost bomb proof the way I'm getting them built. ;D
But won't that create more chances of pump cycling and put more stress on the Pressure switch? When I first started WPF the pumps were moving from 65psi to 100. I only had 1 65psi pump which got sold with a pump box and all the others have been 100psi pumps. I think the 65 psi Shurflo pumps are still available, but are more expensive.
Why do you feel a 60 is the right way to go?
From my own experience I did have my Varistream cutoff set at the right pressure for me and when I put a pressure gauge on it, it was cutting out at 55psi.
One of the problems I found with the Varistream, and I guess this must also apply to others, is the starting delay that sometimes occurs which you won't get with your pressure switch linked controller. However, this hasn't bothered me with the last lot of minibore supplied by Gardiners. It is of softer construction and so swells abit and acts like an expansion chamber, so the delay in the electonic isn't noticeable any longer
Spruce
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Well done,
Nathanael Jones
looks like I'm not the only one in the business ;) :).
Thank's for sharing your knowledge with us. Better that... than to criticize the work of others. ;)
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But won't that create more chances of pump cycling and put more stress on the Pressure switch? When I first started WPF the pumps were moving from 65psi to 100. I only had 1 65psi pump which got sold with a pump box and all the others have been 100psi pumps. I think the 65 psi Shurflo pumps are still available, but are more expensive.
Why do you feel a 60 is the right way to go?
Spruce
Firstly I should just say for the doubters that 60psi of pressure will pump water over 120' vertically,.. so even if you're going for the WFP world record, its plenty powerful enough.
If you have a 60psi pump instead of 100psi you'll get the following benefits:
1. Your pump is under less strain, so it will last longer.
2. Your pump will shut off sooner when you stop the water,.. slight saving on battery power.
3. Your pump AND heater will shut off sooner when you stop the water,.. reduces the chance of overheating issues if you use a gas heater.
4. Less chance of leaks or burst pipes/connectors.
5. With less leaks comes less cycling of the pump (The pump will only cycle if the pressure drops,.. remove leaks & you remove this problem)
A standard 100psi shurflo pump can be adjusted down as low as 60psi. All you need is an alan key,. pop it in the hole in the bottom of the pressure switch (the bottom of the black plastic end of the pump) & turn anti-clockwise. ;)
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But won't that create more chances of pump cycling and put more stress on the Pressure switch? When I first started WPF the pumps were moving from 65psi to 100. I only had 1 65psi pump which got sold with a pump box and all the others have been 100psi pumps. I think the 65 psi Shurflo pumps are still available, but are more expensive.
Why do you feel a 60 is the right way to go?
Spruce
Firstly I should just say for the doubters that 60psi of pressure will pump water over 120' vertically,.. so even if you're going for the WFP world record, its plenty powerful enough.
If you have a 60psi pump instead of 100psi you'll get the following benefits:
1. Your pump is under less strain, so it will last longer.
2. Your pump will shut off sooner when you stop the water,.. slight saving on battery power.
3. Your pump AND heater will shut off sooner when you stop the water,.. reduces the chance of overheating issues if you use a gas heater.
4. Less chance of leaks or burst pipes/connectors.
5. With less leaks comes less cycling of the pump (The pump will only cycle if the pressure drops,.. remove leaks & you remove this problem)
A standard 100psi shurflo pump can be adjusted down as low as 60psi. All you need is an alan key,. pop it in the hole in the bottom of the pressure switch (the bottom of the black plastic end of the pump) & turn anti-clockwise. ;)
Thanks for your reply and input.
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I much prefer DE detection rather than the pumps pressure switch. I can set DE MUCH more accurately on a varistream & also alter it much easier too.
My MKI digital varistream works flawlessly, never missed a beat in about 4+ years!
I'm led to believe though that the newest versions of the Varistream are not as good?
Our Mk1 digital Varistreams also have been great.
I have the latest on the last van we put together. I like the feature that when the unit is off you can press either the + or - buttons and it will display what your state of battery charge is.
What I don't like is that the unit is 'live' all the time. Whilst Williamson's advise that the unit only draws 40MA I believe its more. If you take off a battery terminal and put it back on there is quite a spark, which is more than 40MA IMHO. If we leave a fully charged 85 amp leisure battery connected up for a week, the leisure battery shows a 75% charge when put on a charger. This suggests a drain of about 25% of capacity or 20 amps over a week. The only way we have stopped the drain is to fit a seperate isolator switch between the battery and the Varistream which is not a big problem either way.
They didn't answer when I asked why the box needed to be live all the time though.
Spruce