Clean It Up
UK Window Cleaning Forum => Window Cleaning Forum => Topic started by: SteX13 on August 17, 2011, 02:46:42 pm
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Hi,
I purchased a 4 Stage 100 gallon a day R/O unit.
http://www.ro-man.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=318 (http://www.ro-man.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=318)
I have followed instructions and the water is flowing through great until it gets to the membrane.
The PSI is 60 but at the other end there is not enough flow or pressure to go to the DI section.
I have a TDS of around 250. I tried it without the membrane going through the 2 filters than through DI and the reading went to 20 ish.
Before I cleaned the windows at 250 and it left lots of minerals
I cleaned at 20 ish and it left little but still noticeable amount so guessing I need a reading of 0.
Please can someone advise to why the water will not flush through the membrane?
Regards,
Ste. :)
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these 100 gpd units are just a waste of money mate they produce very little pure water .
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How else you meant to do it?
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I have a 300gpd ro-man unit that works well and just use the RO water (no resin) which is around 003 tds.
I would guess the 100gpd unit will produce around 200l a day, perhaps a bit less, and significantly less in the colder weather.
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That doesn't solve my problem mate.
Just informs me of what you have and how much you think I can produce a day lol
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Its probs producing water so slowly that it will take a while to start producing water, a mate of mine had one of these for all of 30 mins as I could go toilet quicker then them things, thats why I use a 4040, 1000ltr in 6 hours...
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My unit is the same as yours with the addition of an extra 2 100gpd membranes. My water pressure is also similar to yours.
IMO if the membrane works efficiently you should not need to use resin.
To work our your daily production rate time how long it takes the RO to produce 1l of pure water and do the math.
As long as it is not less than 150l per day and the tds is in single figures then the unit is OK. When new the membrane needs a good flush and it can take a few days for the tds reading to reach its optimum.
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Ste,
Is there a little blue (well mine's blue) nob that you twist on your RO? Try twisting it, if there is. You want the waste water to be at a minimum; not jetting out.
I remember telling someone else this; his problem was that his RO was set to flush, therefore producing next to none pure water.
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Its not producing water at all.
Its getting stuck going from the membrane to the DI. The DI doesn't even fill.
Tosh as above mate. I have tried with flush on and off.
Cheers.
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So there's water going into the RO, but none coming out?
Is that correct?
Pull the tubes out so that you can isolate where the problem is; follow the system around.
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I have and described above Tosh.
Blue pipe coming from the Carbon Block goes to the pressure gauge and than through the membrane.
Waste comes out of the green pipe and waste valve when turned on fast flow off slow flow.
The pressure gauge is reading 60 psi.
It should flow from the blue pipe at the end of the membrane to the DI.
I have pulled out this pipe and it just drizzles.
No water reaches the DI.
I tried doing it without the membrane going from the Carbon Block straight to the DI but the TDS is 20+
Great improvement from 250 but it needs to pass through the membrane to get close to zero.
Cheers.
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It should flow from the blue pipe at the end of the membrane to the DI.
I have pulled out this pipe and it just drizzles.
No water reaches the DI.
I haven't really a clue what's wrong to be honest.
Even if it just 'drizzles' out of the RO, it should eventually fill the DI and produce pure water; albiet slowly.
Can you configure so that you have your tap putting water straight into your DI? If then no water goes into the DI, there's obviously something blocking it.
Other than that I'm clueless (many would agree).
I hope someone comes along soon with a better solution.
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Okay thanks for your input
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Anyone else please?
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Its not producing water at all.
Its getting stuck going from the membrane to the DI. The DI doesn't even fill.
Tosh as above mate. I have tried with flush on and off.
Cheers.
your ro is NOT up to the job simple as . you will be lucky to fill 25 ltrs in 24 hrs with what you are using , I BET youve got plenty of waste water but drips on pure .
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Well what does everyone else use?
Its supposed to do 100 gallons per day. So yo saying its false advertising?
I am sure its fine equipment to use its just not working properly.
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Well what does everyone else use?
Its supposed to do 100 gallons per day. So yo saying its false advertising?
I am sure its fine equipment to use its just not working properly.
yeah it will do 100 gpd of water but most of the water is waste . when i started with wfp around 6 years ago i was in the same situation you are , i got a booster pump and that didnt make much diffrence so more wasted money . take a look at a 200 gpd ro units . the equipment you are using will be fine no doubt about that but its just not up to the job . either get a upgrade kit or a bigger unit and your prodution of pure will increase .
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Still nobodys understanding that the water is not going from the membrane to the DI. If it was maybe it would produce water.
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is the DI canister the right way up? try taking it out and run it empty. is the pipe connected to the 'in' & not the 'out'?
don't forget that the GPD figure is american not imperial also these are with everything perfect. ie pressure, temperature and a few other things that i can't remember. hope you get it sorted, i know the frustration you feel as i've had to up grade from 200 to 300 gpd and booster pump.
dave
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Is the membrane in the right way ? Sounds to me that you have put it in backwards and its just rejecting.
The point about the 100 gpd being naff is true. I bought a 100gpd ro after doing my maths. Turned out it was 100gpd at a certain water temp and specific psi. You really need to upgrade to a 300 sooner rather than later or you just wont be producing enough water.
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have a word with these guys , they are based in bristol.
malc gold
trippy
frankybad boy
i am sure one of them will help you get your setup right
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Is the membrane in the right way ? Sounds to me that you have put it in backwards and its just rejecting.
The point about the 100 gpd being naff is true. I bought a 100gpd ro after doing my maths. Turned out it was 100gpd at a certain water temp and specific psi. You really need to upgrade to a 300 sooner rather than later or you just wont be producing enough water.
You can't put the membrane in incorrectly as it will only go in one way. The other thing is that the GPD figures are over 24 hours. And yes, the water will dibble out, just as it does with my RoMan 450 GPD unit. My guess is that he hasn't waited long enough for the unit to work, as it's so slow.
SteX13 had a thread on here the other day asking newbie questions about WFP.
We suggested that the first thing he did was to buy a TDS meter and, once he had got his tap reading, then ask the forum for advice based on what he wanted to achieve within his budget.
It appears that he didn't do that and impetiously went ahead and bought a unit and now is demanding answers. Due diligence study is the correct way to start any venture, including changing over to WFP.
I would suggest that the best option as has been suggested is an upgrade kit, but would start by connecting his system up and running it for a day and then see what results he is getting. If he is using a DI cannister, it will probably take a few hours to fill that with purified water. The original RoMan units had a built in resin filter has part of the R/O, as does the one he bought. I have noticed that when replacing the resin it seems to take a long time to get the air out of the bowl and so appears not to be working.
Spruce
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The RO in the link is stated as 100 US Gallons per day which equates to around 15 litres of pure water an hour at absolute peak conditions over a 24 hour period.
In reality you will not even get this.
RO's of this capacity are a false economy.
I would advise you upgrade by adding an extra membrane or two and possibly a booster pump.
Alternatively buy a bigger and better RO.
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You will probably get 7-8 litres per hour from your RO so it will take 1/2 hour or more for you to fill the di canister (asuming it is a 5l one). Therfore it will take quite a while to get any water out of the di.
Simply measure the amount of time it takes the RO to produce 1L (disconect tube that goes to di and do this directly from the RO). This will give you an idea of how well the unit is working.
IMO the 300gpd units are ideal for a static system for a 1 man band.
If you upgrade your unit to 300gpd you will triple the water production and also reduce waste because waste water is recycled twice, which is handy if you are on a water meter.
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Thanks for the input guys. I will try run it for longer period of time.