Clean It Up
UK Window Cleaning Forum => Window Cleaning Forum => Topic started by: Topclean on May 04, 2011, 06:42:02 am
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as title reads, anyone no what pump i will need to run a double ro?
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I spoke to June at Gaps Water with regards to this and she recommended these:
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cbm240-1in-multi-stage-water-pump?da=1&TC=RV-051011130
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cbm240e-1in-multi-stage-230v-booster-pum?da=1&TC=RV-051011132
they are both the same spec but the cheaper one does'nt have automatic shut off
Simon
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Ebay item number 130514562147
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b&q swimming pool/garden pump matey!!! They where selling them off for £10 dont know if they still are
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b&q swimming pool/garden pump matey!!! They where selling them off for £10 dont know if they still are
do you have one boosting pressure to a 4040 and at what pressure ? does it actually work ?
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Sure have matey! boosts it up to 80 psi allthough i produce my best tds at 65 psi. 5000 ltr a week hasnt let me down been using it for 3 months
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kentkleen, what tds do you get with that booster pump on it? what is you tap pressure?
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is this the one?
http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=9956450&fh_view_size=10&fh_location=%2f%2fcatalog01%2fen_GB&fh_search=pump&fh_eds=ß&fh_refview=search&isSearch=true
do you know what its max pressure is?
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I have a tap pressure of around 25. The max psi after pump is around 80.
At 60 to 65 psi i get a tds avarage of 007 and produce 1000 ltr in around 5 hours.
Hope this helps
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it most certainly does.
how long have you been using it, at £10 i wonder how long it would last.
also was that the right pump in the link?
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using for 3 months. Thats the baby!! At £10 ive already had my moneys worth!! ;D They where meant to be about £40 but they are selling them all off. Transfer pumps as well!! £10
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thanks for replys guys, kentclean what membranes you using will this do hf5? also would anyone no if i need a pump to use two di, one after the other?
Ive set up system with two ro 2 di and water seem to be backing up which i think is affecting the tds levels!
scratching head over this!
thanks in advance
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for that price its worth getting one anyway.
What size are the outlets?
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Membranes are 'GE Systems' Very old top quality and 'Keep on Going' :D
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Sure have matey! boosts it up to 80 psi allthough i produce my best tds at 65 psi. 5000 ltr a week hasnt let me down been using it for 3 months
That B&Q pump is rated at 40 metre head, thats roughly 55 PSI. Its also not rated for continuous use. You say your best TDS is at a lower pressure, that is certainley strange. I have two of these pumps and neither of them have got as powerfull as 50 PSI and thats trying them on two different systems. So my experience of these pumps is that not only are they not capable, they are (according to the literature) not up to the job. The ebay pump i quoted above well i have had one before and it pumped at 80PSI and was rated for continuous use. I've just ordered another one as i damaged my last one with the severe ice we had during the winter.
I'm very happy with my two B&Q pumps as transfer pumps, they're great for the job. Not for pressure boosting though in my experience.
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WHat pump you gonna go for now Topclean?
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I suppose its down to set up hose size etc, mines running now at 65 psi and will be for the next 5 hours!
Running through pre filters that havnt been 'changed' for 18 months and 8 year old membranes! tds 007 checked 10 mins ago.
Tranfer using the same pump into van run it through twin di vessels that have not had a resin change in 12 months water up pole and out of pencil jets = 000 (tds)
RO water can be cheap if you know what your doing ;D
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I suppose its down to set up hose size etc, mines running now at 65 psi and will be for the next 5 hours!
Running through pre filters that havnt been 'changed' for 18 months and 8 year old membranes! tds 007 checked 10 mins ago.
Tranfer using the same pump into van run it through twin di vessels that have not had a resin change in 12 months water up pole and out of pencil jets = 000 (tds)
RO water can be cheap if you know what your doing ;D
Yeah, i'm sure it is if you know what you're doing. And you're pumping more PSI than the pump is capable of, running through pre filters that should according to manufacturers been changed long ago, and into RO's that seem to have twice the lifespan of anyone elses. I'm just muckin about with the stuff really and i could do with spending a day with someone like you who knows what he's doing. Its costing me a fortune.
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One of my best mates has just fit a £90,000 RO water install for a large chemical company. They produce 6 ton an hour at 000 tds.
He gives me all my tips Mike.
I am not trying to be clever just pointing out that with a bit of flushing here and a bit of soaking there you can get excellent almost free maintenance.
All the info i use is all available on the net for free!!!
Manufacturers like to sell you 'service' items.
Its like Car main dealers. You can do alot 'better' and cheaper service on your car yourself if you know what your doing.
I say "dont spend £200 on a pump when you can spend £10"
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well here it is fellas, i like the sound of kentkleans pump but it is very cheap pump this concerns me a little as my last two membranes have only lasted me about 9 months each max! i have just purchased two new membranes and want these two to last a lot longer, not sure weather these pumps would kill the membranes sooner???
just not sure what to do!!
my current system does not run off a pump and it is now producing tds of 21 which in my opinion is not good enough! my pressure is only about 25 - 30 psi so i no a pump would be better just not sure what one.
it is all costing ££££££
THATS IT B&Q i,l let you now how it goes
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well here it is fellas, i like the sound of kentkleans pump but it is very cheap pump this concerns me a little as my last two membranes have only lasted me about 9 months each max! i have just purchased two new membranes and want these two to last a lot longer, not sure weather these pumps would kill the membranes sooner???
just not sure what to do!!
my current system does not run off a pump and it is now producing tds of 21 which in my opinion is not good enough! my pressure is only about 25 - 30 psi so i no a pump would be better just not sure what one.
it is all costing ££££££
THATS IT B&Q i,l let you now how it goes
listen if your membranes are only lasting 9 months you have a big problem.Some causes of early membrane failure could be failing to change the carbon filter and chlorine reaching the membranes. Or running your membranes with insufficient waste water to clear the waste away. You need to find out what you're doing wrong or you'll be wasting more money.
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mike do you think low pressure would cause the good water to back up, because i have changed my pressure gage and the new one is now showing 30 psi and i,ve also noticed that the water is backing up. by this i mean the good water is coming from ro to a di bottle, but now i,m thinking there is not enough pressure to push this through the di?? hope this makes sense!
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look on this site, the first pump was recommended to me for my 4040, the top 2 are the same, one with a pressure switch and one without, they boost up to 90psi and they are cheaper than the clarke pumps.
http://www.anglianpumping.com/cats/Self-priming-pumps.asp
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mike do you think low pressure would cause the good water to back up, because i have changed my pressure gage and the new one is now showing 30 psi and i,ve also noticed that the water is backing up. by this i mean the good water is coming from ro to a di bottle, but now i,m thinking there is not enough pressure to push this through the di?? hope this makes sense!
not sure exactly what you mean. But as long as its coming out the ro i would of thought it would get through your di bottle. What sort of waste to product ratio are you running?
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well here it is fellas, i like the sound of kentkleans pump but it is very cheap pump this concerns me a little as my last two membranes have only lasted me about 9 months each max! i have just purchased two new membranes and want these two to last a lot longer, not sure weather these pumps would kill the membranes sooner???
just not sure what to do!!
my current system does not run off a pump and it is now producing tds of 21 which in my opinion is not good enough! my pressure is only about 25 - 30 psi so i no a pump would be better just not sure what one.
it is all costing ££££££
THATS IT B&Q i,l let you now how it goes
What membranes are you using HF4 or HF5?
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hf5
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In my case I made a machine able to produce in 2hours 500LT of pure water, around 1LT every 18sec.!!!!!! ;D ;) 8)
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To help you (Topclean) make a comparison. I use an HF5 single membrane system. TDS in c.200 . TDS out 008 - 015 . Water pressure 35 - 40 PSI. No pump.
At first, it was giving me about 90 Litres Per Hour of pure. After about 3 months, this had dropped to about 60 LPH.
Today, after nearly 6 months, I changed the sediment and carbon pre-filters. Production went up to nearly 90 again.
I suspect that the low pressure is putting more strain on the sediment filter. Normally these have been a bit off white when I change them. However, this one today was grey. So much so that I did a quick double take to make sure I hadn't put the carbon filter in the wrong housing. I hadn't.
9 months definitely not long enough for membranes. Have you considered making your system single membrane so that there may be a bit more pressure going through? You do change your pre-filters regularly don't you? 20" max 6 months. 10" max 3 months. Usually better to do it more frequently. I will be after seeing that sediment pre-filter today.
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look on this site, the first pump was recommended to me for my 4040, the top 2 are the same, one with a pressure switch and one without, they boost up to 90psi and they are cheaper than the clarke pumps.
http://www.anglianpumping.com/cats/Self-priming-pumps.asp
I don't know anything about this topic as I don't use a booster pump. When would you use a pressure switch controlled unit and when wouldn't you?
I see June from Gaps has recommended 2 from machine mart via Lee.
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You need a pressure switch if you are going to leave the pump running for it to automaticly switch off when the tank is full, but it would need to be used in conjunction with a ball cock of some sort.
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Got a pump of pure freedom fills 500lt in an hour, brill.
Mart
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thanks for all the info fellas, i,m still waiting for a pump to be delivered (b & q).
Lee the pump with a pressure switch you say cuts off if used with a ball cock, but does that stop the water completely because although the good water will stop going in to the tank what about the waste?? i cant get my head around this. i will need to set up some kind of timer?
easycleaner, what pump did they sell you? and was it for a 4040 ro?
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thats a good question, im in the process of setting up a booster pump too, i hadnt thought of that, i cant answer it, hopefully someone else will come along and give us the answer. ???
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thanks for all the info fellas, i,m still waiting for a pump to be delivered (b & q).
Lee the pump with a pressure switch you say cuts off if used with a ball cock, but does that stop the water completely because although the good water will stop going in to the tank what about the waste?? i cant get my head around this. i will need to set up some kind of timer?
easycleaner, what pump did they sell you? and was it for a 4040 ro?
Hi
this was answered on a separate post just recently.
If you use a float switch such as this
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/float-switch-230v-2m-cable?da=1&TC=RV-051040000
then you will be able to switch your booster pump off when the float switch identifies that your IBC tank is full.
You also need a solenoid valve 'normally off' at your r/o inlet wired into this float switch as well.
Once the power is cut to the booster pump when the tank is full, the power will also be cut to the solenoid valve and it will shut the water off to the R/O.
Fill your van, and once the IBC tank is about half full, the float switch will kick on again, activating the solenoid valve so the r/o is fed with mains water and the booster pump is also switch on.
Spruce
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spruce, can you wire a pump and a solenoid into one float switch?
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hi all
i recently bought a booster pump with a tank from omnipole but after plumbing it up it just turns off after a couple mins ...but if you release the waste it gushes out any ideas
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As I said earlier, I am sure that the float switch is rated at 10amps.
This booster pump from machine mart draws 1000w at 230v = 4.5amps.
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cbm240-1in-multi-stage-water-pump?da=1&TC=RV-051011130
The solenoid valve coils current requirement is very low, so yes they would.
You would just need to confirm with the technical dept of machinemart that this float switch is rated at 10amp to be 100% sure. The wire used looks like it will carry that current.
Make up a cable from 10amp cable with a 13amp plug for your normal wall socket. Run this cable to a 6 terminal 20amp junction box.
eg.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/heavy-duty-junction-box-20a-6-terminal/21209
The postive (brown) from the cable would go the the first terminal you allocate in the junction box. Identify which 2 of the 3 cables you need from the float switch. (In a previous recent post, the float switch can work opposite to the way it's wired up in a submersible pump. You need the setup that will switch the current off as the float becomes vertical.) The first wire to the switch will then be wired into this same terminal you put the feed into. Take the other wire from the float switch and allocate it a 2nd terminal. This will be positive only when the float switch is on. You then use this terminal as the positive feed to the solenoid valve and the booster pump. The neutral of both booster pump and solenoid valve will be allocated the 3rd terminal (blue cable), as will the neutral to the plug. The 4th terminal will be the earth cable, used if the booster pump and solenoid valve are earthed. If they don't have an earth, ie they are double insulated (only have two wires) then it won't be used.
The 3rd wire that comes out of the float switch will not be used. Separate it and wire it in to the 5th terminal in the junction box to keep it out of the way. No other wires will be connected to this terminal.
Spruce
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thanks for the explanation, you recommended the float switch before and that is what i am going to use, but i hand thought about a solenoid to cut the water supply off.
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thanks for the explanation, you recommended the float switch before and that is what i am going to use, but i hand thought about a solenoid to cut the water supply off.
Lee,
No problem. I have this system on my IBC tank, - booster pump. It's just left to it's own devices. Once the tank is full then it just switches off, day or night.
Of course the other way is to put the system onto a timer and you guess how long the system must run for to the fill the tank. You will need to ensure the overflow pipe always works to prevent a flood into your storage area if you over-estimate filling time.
Spruce.
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I realise that it's not a standard solution but I invested in one of these:
http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=146253
I also have a ballcock in the tank.
I assume that if one thing fails, the other won't.
Although I would get more pressure with a pump,I have experienced cutoff failure and flooding in the past. Apparently a little bit of dirt got into the solenoid. So I've never trusted them since.
So the device above stops the water flowing at the tap once the set time is reached. The ballcock in the tank will stop the water entering the tank. The two items aren't linked to each other. The timer is battery operated.
It means my system is pumpless and that my water pressure is around 35 PSI. I use a HF5 40" membrane as it's meant to be reasonably OK at lower pressures. Not the greatest TDS out nor the greatest production figures - but it does me OK.