Clean It Up
UK Window Cleaning Forum => Window Cleaning Forum => Topic started by: erithwc on January 27, 2011, 08:05:32 pm
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just had a go with my wfp system today and have got a couple of question
1, found the clx pole hose was very stiff due to the cold is there a more flexible hose i can get ?
2, the brush i have is the gardiners supalite dual flocked is it better to have a brush with white brissles so you can see when it gets dirty ?
3, when cleaning the bottom windows the water from the top window was still dripping onto the bottom window sill and splashing the window is this normal or am i doing somthing wrong ?
thank erithwc
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1. Yes. The ionics hose is superior and flexible.
2. Yes.
3. No.
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DO ALL THE TOPS THEN ALL THE BOTTOM WINDOWS
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Regarding the splash from upstairs. It is better to have a flow on/off control at the brush head. Such as an Aqua-dapter or Autobrush. You may prefer a tap or trigger on your pole but this will have a loop of hose to contend with and is very awkward. Then you can turn the water off instantly then wipe the up stair sill of any excess water which will greatly reduce the amount of water dripping down. I prefer a white bristled brush if possible as well
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Work in a way that minimises the drips, don't do the window underneath straight after doing the one above.
If that means going back then thats what you have to do, you will soon recognise the windows that need it and organise your job in a slightly different way to accomodate it. Its all part of the learning process.
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when people say to do first cleans twice - do they mean do the whole house once - then by the time the first windows you have done are nearly dry - to do it all again?? or do they mean go over the windows twice - the problem is that really dirty frames slowly drip down dirty water so you have to do them again when dry??
cheers,
Rob
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once you have cleaned the upstairs window , turn water flow off and wipe along the sill with the brush head .job done
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when people say to do first cleans twice - do they mean do the whole house once - then by the time the first windows you have done are nearly dry - to do it all again?? or do they mean go over the windows twice - the problem is that really dirty frames slowly drip down dirty water so you have to do them again when dry??
cheers,
Rob
If the customer is paying extra for the first clean, I tend to go over all frames (including vents but without squirting into the vents) and glass. When that is done, I go over them all again - but glass only this time. To minimise hose movement and save time, I may do all windows on one side (top and bottom) on the first pass as it doesn't really if it's still dripping if you will be redoing the glass a bit later. Even doing it this way, it is still possible to have the odd run on the first clean but it minimises it.
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Be a trad chap then you won't get the drips :)
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Be a trad chap then you won't get the drips :)
i always thought trad chaps were drips! ;D
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you will find in a new pole it will be a bit stiff at first as the clamps are sightened up at the factory just loosen em up to what is right for you will find this also with the brush needs to be settled in and do all tops first and go back to the r first window below the first top you did do sills with no water do a double sweep
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Here Gary it wasn't a trad getting drips was it ;)
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ive just swoped over to wfp found my self explaining to custy about wfp more than cleaning windows ihad just finished cleaning round the the back of one house only to find the owner at the front wiping the window with a shammy ??? i had only just told them it would be ok so had to do it again ,qupid stunt
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ive just swoped over to wfp found my self explaining to custy about wfp more than cleaning windows ihad just finished cleaning round the the back of one house only to find the owner at the front wiping the window with a shammy ??? i had only just told them it would be ok so had to do it again ,qupid stunt
1) Don't say anything to the customer about WFP just carry on as normal.
2) If they do ask just tell them you have invested a lot of money in the system because it gives a better standard
of clean and because its a safer way of working.
3) I just say the windows will be left wet but this is part of the cleaning process and will dry to leave a crystal clear
and smear free finish.
4) If they still dont look convinced give them a surprised look and say "All of my customers think its fantastic and are
really happy with how great their windows look!" ;D
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got another question about the water after ro its about 025-030 after the di its about 002 does this mean the di needs replacing the di has only done about 300ltrs :-[
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25 to 30 ppm sounds very high. Whats your TDS of your tap water?
Your RO should be running at approximately 95% effiency or there abouts.
So for example if your tap TDS was 300ppm the water coming out of your RO before the DI should be around 15ppm.
Disconnect your DI and make sure all connections are securely fitted and your membranes are seated properley in the housings with seals correctly fitted.
Run it without DI and see if it settles down otherwise you are just using up your resin.
Sometimes it takes a little while for your output TDS to settle down.
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tap water tds is 365 after ro is around 030 all the filter connections are fine its a brand new system
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I see well that means you are getting about 92 to 93% efficiency which isn't too bad when you look at it like that.
See how you get on but I wouldnt be surprised if it settles down a bit soon and you may get a slightly better reading from that maybe around 15ppm.
From 280ppm tap water my RO was giving an output of 14 to 16ppm when I got it.
It came down to 12ppm after a short while and now I get about 7 to 8ppm.
Might be worthwhile making sure you have some spare resin incase you need it.
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got another question about the water after ro its about 025-030 after the di its about 002 does this mean the di needs replacing the di has only done about 300ltrs :-[
Only possible to answer this if the size of the DI vessel is known. Is it one of those teeny plastic ones or a much larger one?
At 25 TDS, a 25 litre bag of resin should give about 20,000 litres of pure water.
It may even be that the TDS meter is slightly out. It can happen. Was it showing 000 when the resin was brand new?
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One other thing I forgot to mention. If you have a flow restrictor on your waste pipe try adjusting it to see if you can get better quality output.
With the restrictor open you should get better quality water (lower ppm) but more waste water.
With the restrictor slightly closed to restrict waste output your water quality will be lower (higher ppm).
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Don't panic about water not being at the magical '000' ::)
There's no law saying it should be - it's just a convenient figure to use as a benchmark for water pure enough not to leave spots.
We operater up to 010 without any problems and have on occasion gone a lot higher.
'000' water is not 'pure' - it just has less than one part per million dissolved solids in it. The electronics industry uses water down to one part per billion or less
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Erith, wash out an old glass or jam jar and rinse it out with pure, then fill that and take a reading, you will be surprised, I bet it'll read 000.
I use to just use the cap on the TDS meter and it use to say 005 then used a glass and got 000.
Matt
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thanks for the replys i think its me i just need to get used to it a few weeks and i will be fine im going to buy a spare 10" di filter just incase :)
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got another question about the water after ro its about 025-030 after the di its about 002 does this mean the di needs replacing the di has only done about 300ltrs :-[
Not necessarily, watch it and think about changing it when it gets to 5-7 Its the fact that it changes that indicates the resin is knackered.
It could just be because its new. Its also possible that resin doesn't take out all every sort of impurity. It takes out limescale but there are about a million other possible things disolved in your water . Your system might always run at this sort of level