[chris scott]

Flow switches are rated at 80c so you should be ok. If it all goes wrong use first flow switch (cold water in) to switch both burners. Just bypass 2nd (hot in) flow switch and hard wire  second burner to the first. Or run them  parallel.

You will need one of these.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24-HP-TWIN-CYLINDER-LOMBARDINI-DIESEL-PRESSURE-WASHER-/270483814593?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item3efa1778c1
Two of these but 21 litres
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PRESSURE-WASHER-LAVOR-BOILER-CLEANWELL-15LTRS-MIN-/180474093713?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Hearing_Cooling_Air&hash=item2a05182091
One of these.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STERLING-PRO-POWER-Q-12V-240V-POWER-INVERTOR-INVERTER-350W-I12350-/290634695833?pt=UK_Campervan_Caravan_Accessories&hash=item43ab2d8499
One of these.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BOX-TRAILER-/221193767950?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item33802d0c0e
Or one of these 11lpm 1500psi ...must be useless!!!
http://restorative-products.com/thermatech/

[Matt Gibson]

Whats he trying to do? Get water hot enough from his machine so he doesnt have to boil the kettle? 

[chris scott]

Matt
Machines such as the Thermic 17 is fitted with a 15lpm boiler (i think) maybe a 21lpm boiler. At 15lpm you can only raise the water temp to what is going in by approx 60/70 degrees. So  at 22 lpm at 200bar at the nozzle the temp will be approx 80/90 degrees. Only any good for washing wagons.
You could "BLAST" the surface clean with pressure but it is not really the heat that is doing the work (although it will help). The problem with this method is damage to the substrate soft stone etc.
If we can get up around 130/140  degrees (steam) we can "melt" the paint/coating off without damaging the surface underneath.
This temp can be achieved easily. The problem comes when trying to run fsc etc due to the lack of flow/ pressure
Similarly at these temps you sterilizing the substrate killing of growth such as moss and algae that
"PRESSURE WASHING" leaves behind . Chemicals could achieve this but sometimes this is not acceptable.
So given we can only raise the water by 70 degrees at 15lpm  through a 15L boiler .
There are two ways to go about it. We either connect   the boilers in series or in parellel....as of yet i do not know which will be more efficient .
Either heat the supply up to 70 c in one boiler and then pump it through the other to acheive maybe 120/130 c or split the supply and feed the two boilers at the same time at a reduced flow through each boiler and then "joining them back together" through some sort of manifold. This way the heat sensitive flow switches only have cold water flowing through  them at 15lpm as there design parameters.

[Blast Away]

I've been advised by 3 people so far to split to the 2 burners rather than through 1 on to the other.

Flow switches are about £40 and rate at 30lpm so I'd go for the splitting option then back out to one reel.

The aim is to flat surface clean with good heat at 30lpm.

One question I had was if I would need non return check valves but as there's only one unloader valve involved in this there wouldn't be a need for them.

[Matt Gibson]

Sounds interesting. A lot of the yanks have problems running decent heat through a fsc. I think most of them are only rated to abour 80 degrees.

[chris scott]

Sounds interesting. A lot of the yanks have problems running decent heat through a fsc. I think most of them are only rated to abour 80 degrees.

Don't believe everything  you read or the salesmen tells you...look at Findus lasagne
Most machines in this country only run on that....even tho' most of them claim more. Most of the boilers have generic 150c stats on them too.

[Matt Gibson]

I wasnt going off the rated  temp, I was going of real people having problems with seals etc from running them too hot.

[chris scott]

It would only affect "seals" in the pipe , lances, or fsc. These are manily "o" ring so cheap and easily changed to Flourocarbon rubber or silicone "o"rings.
Hoses would be more of a problem !! Due to the heat they will go soft and expand around crimped joints etc.
A bit dangerous super heated water !!!!

[Roger Oakley]

I wasnt going off the rated  temp, I was going of real people having problems with seals etc from running them too hot.

Fit teflon coated seals, you shouldn't have any problems, never did with the H&M at 250f

[Great Outdoors]

I wasnt going off the rated  temp, I was going of real people having problems with seals etc from running them too hot.

Fit teflon coated seals, you shouldn't have any problems, never did with the H&M at 250f

250f is that the max ! 

[chris scott]

I wasnt going off the rated  temp, I was going of real people having problems with seals etc from running them too hot.

Fit teflon coated seals, you shouldn't have any problems, never did with the H&M at 250f

250f is that the max ! 

Thats enough it;s not water anymore.

[Roger Oakley]

I wasnt going off the rated  temp, I was going of real people having problems with seals etc from running them too hot.

Fit teflon coated seals, you shouldn't have any problems, never did with the H&M at 250f

250f is that the max !  

Thats enough it;s not water anymore.

Wrong it is water with the H&M if you use the various nozzles supplied.

[chris scott]

Quote   "Wrong it is water with the H&M if you use the various nozzles supplied."

The H&M is therefore a hotwash like the Lavor . Good for   washing wagons, breaking down grease etc .
Basic chemistry would tell you what happens to water at 100c/212f.
I would bet that the H&M "only " achevied  80c. Doing most of its cleaning by flow/pressure with the help of hot water.
Still pretty effective in it's own right.

[chris scott]

M clean you deleated your post?
To answer your questions.
I consider myself and my  cross dressing eunuch boyfriend to be fairly open minded .
I do  base a lot of what i do  on what i know ..this is true. I find the outcome better than getting involved in things that i know nothing about.
I am prepared to listen to professionals .... as you say "i should listen and learn" .  This i am willing to do.
As you rightly said your machine is producing  steam at 150c  . I agree with you
Sorry if i missed anything out.

[Blast Away]

Chris, have you seen the burner on a H&M?

[chris scott]

No i have not...but if there is "water" coming out of the nozzle i doubt very much if it is achieving 100c at the important bit. Maybe it is in the boiler or at the tip of the thermostat. I could be wrong.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6wb3JUvmYes

[Blast Away]

Chris, I get the impression you think heat alone removed the paint from the surface in that video...

It states in the info that a chemical was left on for 8 hours to dwell.

Have a look a the burner on a H&M.

[chris scott]

It will remove the paint on its own. Using say a water based paint stripper will always make the job easyer. For me thats what is all about making the job easy.Getting the best results for the least amount of effort . .

[chris scott]

Just had a look at the site ..really impressive. I could not find an figures for the boiler outputs to give an indication of working temps.
They are impressive no doubt about that...but i do get the impression that you are really only buying a smart looking trailer with a water tank and how many "pressure washers" you require fitting in it.
Nice if you have the money or work for it but i did not see any real innovation there.  Just good yanks bigger better more of!!
I think you could easily build something here that is more suitable for the type of work we generally carry out..given you had the money.
No getting away from it they are smart...would i own one? No i dont think so.... imagine turning up to cleaning grannies patio with a fifth wheel unit...i would need two parking spaces!!!

[chris scott]

Got this reply from H&M chat thingy there sales team...
Jasonplocek: Standard machines will do up to 200 degrees, thereafter we are talking about wet, then dry steam.
When you want to produce steam you have to cut the water back and increase the temperature
what are you looking to clean with steam temperatures and high pressure of a pressure washer?
To get to 250 what you are doing is cutting back the water flow, typically by 1/2 so an 8.0 gpm machine will run around 4.0 gpm to get you over the 200 degree mark, the more you cut the flow, the higher temperature will go. we don't recommend this as it causes the impurities to essentially boil out of the water causing damage to pumps and causing the coiul to scale very quickly.