[John Gregory]

hi all

I've got a customer who tried sealing his block paved driveway last summer with resiblock . He has made a right hash of it . It look's like he put the sand down while the blocks were still wet then just put the sealant on top . the chanfers on the block paving are full of sand and sealant. He want's me to rectify it for him

any ideas on the best way to remove the sand and sealant

Thanks John

[drive surgeon]

jesus, this will be a nightmare job this, seen lots of cock ups before and tried to rectify them , you would have to blast the lot out of each joint with very high pressure, it will take ages believe me i have tried .  resiblock is the best sealer so its hard to get off, i have layed resiblock numerous times but i have never done a bad job but even when you take your time and do a great job its still a pain to do, time consuming and open to comebacks,  even having done it many a time even i sometimes get shiny patches on the finished drive, its not easy and im thinking of advising against any sealers as cheaper ones just come off anyway, if the best one does not boed well i would not even try a cheaper acrylic one.  resiblock is a resin which soakes in.  you wont get it off the actuall blocks themselves easy either onced cured. you can only remove it with resiclean once you first put it on within a half an hour max i would say.

i would not even attempt this thru experience, unless anyone else knows a trick to do it??    

[rob fryer]

Could try sand blasting equipment ,wet blast type through the pressure washer,just try small patch .

[John Gregory]

Thanks for the replie drive surgeon  I had a little go today at 3000psi, It was coming off in places and solid in others , I not trying to get the sealant off the face of the block just the chanfers . there's a open cheque on this job the customer knows its going to be a nightmare so not too worried

Thanks  John

ps its about 80sqm

Thanks John

[drive surgeon]

ok mate, keep on blasting the sand out of the joints then, it will be hard and time consuming but an open cheque book sounds nice ,   you can sand the joints again after you have the excess out of the chamfers, i would leave it at that then, you can only re seal when it all goes matt, if its the glossy superior.  see how you get on first then re post on the thread with your answers.  good luck.

[John Gregory]

thanks again Drive surgeon , it is the glossy superior that custy used why do I have to wait for it to go matt before I reseal it ?

John

[drive surgeon]

thats what it says in the superior guidelines in the instruction book. if you want expert advise ring them, go to

www.resiblock.com      for details and phone numbers.

you have to be very carefull with superior as it can go black with too much on and the new coats wont soak in as its been already sealed,  ring them to make sure, dont want you to be in the poop if you cock it up, good luck, let us know how you get on, ask them when it can be re sealed and im sure they will say when its all gone matt,  the glossy does not usually stay glossy for long anyway.

[John Gregory]

I'm so glad  I asked

Thanks

[drive surgeon]

no problem john, just let us know on this thread how you get on as its interesting and a learning curve for us all,

[keith b]

Yes, I would go along with Rob! - sand blasting or wet sand blasting is the way to go (test first on a small patch) but also incase the pressure washer lance through a hole in the top of a old bucket to stop the sand getting everywhere - and have a industrial vac on hand, or contact `Resiblock` they would know!

you must wear sealed safety glasses and a mask!

[John Gregory]

your good set of lads , tell me a bit more about this wet sandblasting . I am currently using a techclean set up , what bits do I need to be able to sand blast and where do I get it from

Thanks in advance   John

[drive surgeon]

i got the tech clean set up too john but not tried it, let me know.

[mark.laycock1@ntlw]

hi john,

have you any photos of the drive you could show us?

[drivewasher]

Nitromorse paint stripper will remove resiblock superior, its hazardous and messy though.
Thats why you cant put any more coats on as it won't be "melted" by the next coat even if you use superior again. (you know when you put xylene on basic resin it melts it, re-emulsifing they call it)

[keith b]

John,

Go to the website below - it will show you the gear you need to wet blast - and you can rent from them!

www.hydroblast.co.uk/page/wet.htm

[trevor perry]

not sure but i think there is a chemical called xylene that can be brushed on and then it can be removed with just a hosepipe so a pressure washer would make it easy.

[Roger Oakley]

Basically you need to strip the whole lot off, try Eeze strip from tensid, if will be messy, hazardous, and expensive but will do the job, I have used it, photos are on my web-site. As I said the product is not cheap so if you go this route, price accordingly.

[Ged]

john
try ringing resiblock in basildon and ask for their technical deparment. they are usually very helpful

ged

[drive surgeon]

yes ring them , good advice.

[mick101]

if youve got the tech clean set up ring jan and ask for there sand blast head she will tell you all you need to know.