[Fieldsy]

After using our little 300gpd for the last few years, we have ammassed more work and we've finally opted for the 4040 system from Phil at vyair. I have a water pressure of 45psi and the new system is running flawlessly without a booster pump and a low pressure membrane. Getting about 90 litres per hour at the mo. Could introduce a pump, but the production is enough for us at the moment. Well pleased with it, and great customer service from vyair. TDS into Resin is about 9 and 000 pure into tank. Onwards and upwards ................Just need another van now, thats a cue for another post

[Rob.Hall]

Is that in the van or static?

[Fieldsy]

Static Rob 

[johnny bravo]

what was the price of your 4040,   how big a DI vessel do you use
cheers

[Fieldsy]

Hi,

Vessel is 8 litres (which I already had from the small system )

4040 was £518, that includes stainless steel casing, low pressure membrane, 3 x pre filters with carbon wrap filters, all connections/connectors/ptfe tape.
Membrane was pre-installed for me by vyair.
8 litres of resin.

All I had to get was 30m of reinforced 1/2" hosing and a sheet of ply to strap it all to

Well pleased

[Smudger]

👍

Well done, and as you say when needed you can increase production by adding a booster pump

Darran

[Clever Forum Name]

If you add a booster pump wouldn't you have to change the membrane ?

[Smudger]

Don't think so,

Even the ultra low pressure membranes run best at 80 psi according to the specs I've read. - they can run on lower ie. The 45 psi the op is running, just not optimum

Things like the the hf5needs around 110 psi - it does vary from make to make.

Darran

[Fieldsy]

Well, Vyair sent me a booster pump as well, and told me I could send it back if not needed, so I'm assuming it would have been ok to use it

[Clever Forum Name]

I would be interested to see what results i can achieve with a booster. Tap pressure of 70 - 90 psi

Good to know, i am moving areas so will check water pressure when i get there

[Fieldsy]

Thats why I posted, just to let people know, water production is feasible with 45psi and without a pump. As Smudger said, I can always add a pump if we need even more

[johnny bravo]

ill have to check my tap pressure, keep meaning to get a pressure gauge

[johnny bravo]

if you have any pics of set-up can you send me some to my email,   this may be something i can fit in outhouse, ill have to look into set-up space etc.,
what takes me 8 hours for 220 litres could be done in just over 2 hours.     i could get enough done in 1 day for what i need.

[Fieldsy]

@ Johnny, speak to Phil at vyair, they will send you one free of charge to test your pressure, as long as you send it back  and yes I'll take some pics for you,

cheers

[Fieldsy]

Heres one of the set up and the 2nd one to show size in respect to the 1000 litre tank

[heath verrall]

Nice job ,

[Fieldsy]

Thanks, I try  ...lol

[Avo]

Thanks, I try  ...lol

hi mate what is your tap tds going into the system before you achieve 9tds?

[Fieldsy]

Hi,  mains is 375

[Avo]

That's really good 👍

[johnny bravo]

pressure gauge should be here tomorrow,   first time testing pressure,     Fieldsy,   can you go through it with me.     will i need to connect hosepipe to it,    or hozelock connections,
do i just turn it on full and leave for a few minutes and take the reading of pressure on dial

[Fieldsy]

Hi,

My gauge had a tap connection already fitted ( the type you just screw on to an outside tap). Just had to twist it on and turn on tap. Pressure shows immediately on gauge.

[richard groves]

You've made a sound purchase there fieldsy
One bit of advice I got from Phil at vyair, consider fitting a bypass to the waste tap. Reason being when you find the sweet spot for optimum ro performance between tds and waste, you leave the tap as it is and need never adjust it again. The bypass hose runs off a t piece before the waste tap and rejoins the waste hose via another t piece after it. A second tap or gate valve / ball valve etc. is fitted to the bypass hose, you simply open it to flush and close it to produce pure.

and an inline tds meter ( If you don't already have one )
It simplifies things so much and will preserve resin. You can open the waste bypass valve , instantly check the tds and when its as low as it will go, close it and start producing pure.

[Jakey boy]

did you get the system 'custom' built so to speak? as his website doesnt show complete systems?

[Fieldsy]

What a great idea Mr Bitt, I've got a spare tap, cos as you know Phil usually provides loads of extra bits . Great company to deal with. Will be giving that a go

@Jakey,

It couldn't have been simpler m8. The membrane was pre fitted. The prefilters were in the containers, just needed to take the wrappers off and screw back up again. It was just a case of getting all the pipework connected in the right order .

Hardest bit was securing the membrane housing to the ply, cos its reasonably heavy and could use two men to keep it straight whilst fitting the brackets.............but a knee and a spirit level in the right place did it ok on my own .

Phil supplies everything you need and more.

[johnny bravo]

i still cant get my head around your description mr bit,     im lost all togeather.

pressure gauge should be here tomorrow.   from vyair.

[Clever Forum Name]

I usually flush mine every time i make water.

I have got a t piece in to stop the RO spike tho

tds after RO
tds after 1st Di
tds after 2nd Di

[johnny bravo]

holly molley,     im too used to my simple 300 ro set-up.

mind that took some learning but simples when you get used to it

[Clever Forum Name]

Looks complicated but it ain't at all

[richard groves]

i still cant get my head around your description mr bit,     im lost all togeather.

pressure gauge should be here tomorrow.   from vyair.

Its very straightforward , the attached pic should help. Ignore the fact its all compression joined and brass plumbed. Its just what I had lying around and my system at the time was fitted in my first floor flat so had to be completely fail safe and free from leaks.

The red needle valve to the right is my waste valve set to its optimum ratio for waste/pure.
Notice the bypass to the left and the ball lever, its open to flush the system. If I closed it a quarter of a turn it would start making pure.

Most 4040 ro's will just have a plastic ball lever style tap on the waste hose, in order to flush it you will have to fully open it and then partially close it again to make pure water. Problem is setting the tap back in the right place each time, some people mark the spot the tap needs to be set to.
A needle valve is more finely adjustable ( the tap with the red wheel in the pic ) and retains continuity because if you fit a bypass and second tap as I suggest you need never adjust it again.

If buying from vyair, just speak to Phil about it. I am sure he can supply you all fittings and explain it to you.

[Perfect Windows]

You've made a sound purchase there fieldsy
One bit of advice I got from Phil at vyair, consider fitting a bypass to the waste tap. Reason being when you find the sweet spot for optimum ro performance between tds and waste, you leave the tap as it is and need never adjust it again. The bypass hose runs off a t piece before the waste tap and rejoins the waste hose via another t piece after it. A second tap or gate valve / ball valve etc. is fitted to the bypass hose, you simply open it to flush and close it to produce pure.

and an inline tds meter ( If you don't already have one )
It simplifies things so much and will preserve resin. You can open the waste bypass valve , instantly check the tds and when its as low as it will go, close it and start producing pure.

Good idea with one caveat.  You still need to check it occasionally.  Input water pressure and temperature can make a difference to your sweet spot, so you do need the odd check, certainly between summer and winter.

Vin

[richard groves]

You've made a sound purchase there fieldsy
One bit of advice I got from Phil at vyair, consider fitting a bypass to the waste tap. Reason being when you find the sweet spot for optimum ro performance between tds and waste, you leave the tap as it is and need never adjust it again. The bypass hose runs off a t piece before the waste tap and rejoins the waste hose via another t piece after it. A second tap or gate valve / ball valve etc. is fitted to the bypass hose, you simply open it to flush and close it to produce pure.

and an inline tds meter ( If you don't already have one )
It simplifies things so much and will preserve resin. You can open the waste bypass valve , instantly check the tds and when its as low as it will go, close it and start producing pure.

Good idea with one caveat.  You still need to check it occasionally.  Input water pressure and temperature can make a difference to your sweet spot, so you do need the odd check, certainly between summer and winter.

Vin

Good point but that goes for anything I guess.
My 4040 has been pretty consistent though tbh, having an inline pressure gauge,  tds meter and needle valve for the waste does make any checks and fine adjustments a lot quicker and simpler though.

[Fieldsy]

@Mr Bitt, blimey thats better than some plumbing I've seen.....lol

Gonna give this a go at the weekend mate, as I've got a spare tap. Will run the by pass, as Phil provided some y joints and bits and pieces aswell.


Nice idea mate

[richard groves]

@Mr Bitt, blimey thats better than some plumbing I've seen.....lol

Gonna give this a go at the weekend mate, as I've got a spare tap. Will run the by pass, as Phil provided some y joints and bits and pieces aswell.


Nice idea mate

yeah my brother in law is a plumber so I just broke in to his van 

Glad to help
post back and let us know how you get on