how much product water ???

« **on:** April 14, 2006, 11:28:00 pm »

i have a 100gpd ro from the ro-man and was wondering if anyone could help me?
How much waste does nit produce and how much pure does it prodoce?
also how long will it take to fill a 250 ltr tank?
i am just starting in this wfp game and could do with your help.
thanks everyone.

« **Reply #1 on:** April 14, 2006, 11:38:37 pm »

its about 1 pure to 3 waste, well my 60 gall is

« **Reply #2 on:** April 14, 2006, 11:40:32 pm »

does anyone know if i can reduce the waste that is produced??
seems a lot to just poor away.
Cheers everyone for your help.
Wicked site for a novice

« **Reply #3 on:** April 14, 2006, 11:55:40 pm »

hi ScrimShady well mmmm you could warm your water before putting through ro but thats not possible, so wait for the summer when cold water warms naturally. increase cold pressure putting pump in front of ro unit 50-60 psi should make a difference. but at end of day unless you are prepared to spend severall thousands of pounds on a recirculating system and have next to no waste, stick with what you have.
i looked into a system which has very little waste and unless you are made of money your per litre cost would be alot higher.but having said that i would be delighted to recycle my waste water again as we need as much water as we can save otherwise we will be up a creek without a paddle to put a paddle in if we are not carefull.
regards
paul

« **Reply #4 on:** April 15, 2006, 09:22:39 am »

Fist of all you need to work out how much good water you are producing per hour or whatever now. I timed how long it takes to fill a 25 litre drum and that is your benchmark output for future comparison.
At the same time see how many drums of waste you collect while the drum of good water is being collected.
That gives you the good to waste ratio.

When you make changes later you can then measure any improvements against your original figures

The best way to start in my opinion is to get a pump from Ro-man to boost the inlet pressure. RO units need good pressure and they don't work well if the pressure is low.

Check out other postings about putting on a second RO unit. I have now experience of this but it seems to work.

« **Reply #5 on:** April 15, 2006, 09:46:19 am »

Quote from: ScrimShady on April 14, 2006, 11:40:32 pm

does anyone know if i can reduce the waste that is produced??
seems a lot to just poor away.

The best way is to do like Vince said, get a pump on your system. Then to reduce the waste to 1L waste for 1L pure add 2 more 100gpd membranes from Ro-Man, they do it as a kit, you would need 2 100gpd upgrade kits.

With a pumped 200GPD system ( what I've got at the mo ) i get over 0.5L per minute, I'll be upgrading it next month to a 300Gpd which should give me over 0.75L per min.

Tim

« **Reply #6 on:** April 15, 2006, 09:51:19 am »

If your water pressure is above 60 PSI a pump wont make very much difference.

Adding the extra membranes will.

Cheers

Andrew

« **Reply #7 on:** April 15, 2006, 10:07:07 am »

cheers for all the help sounds like i should get a pump and a upgrade kit.
thanks all
Scrim

« **Reply #8 on:** April 15, 2006, 11:13:59 am »

Scrim

You could also play around with the figures on RO-Man site to get some idea of what you can achieve (product water wise anyway) buy entering different water input temps, different RO units, different input TDS readings, different input PSI, etc

Click on Ro-MANs website/ support/ system performance

I would post the link but ro-mans site wont allow me to copy the shortcut

I also looked at this before posting a thread Called "Optimun working temp"

http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=18794.0

Because as paul posted you could warm the water first to produce more , I was thinking along the lines of heating it feed first to get my 100gpd RO to produce more than stated

Chris

« **Reply #9 on:** April 15, 2006, 02:27:36 pm »

been wondering about a heat exchanger. might be possible.

« **Reply #10 on:** April 15, 2006, 02:31:55 pm »

Tell me more Paul whats a heat exchanger do , I was thinking of an old shower unit i have in the garage

Chris

« **Reply #11 on:** April 15, 2006, 02:56:20 pm »

chris, you would need to recycle warm water around the cold input. this could be done the same way people who use cooking oil in their diesel vans/cars which is connected via the heater matrix and then run the cold oil through the middle to warm it up. so poss have input tube coiled in a vessell and then on to input of ro. poss vessell could be glass and put on centrall heating radiator? but i think fitting in bottom of shower unit should fit ro set to a medium temp and looking at manufacturers data find optimum temp. But how much cost to heat water? is it viable 12 to 24 hours of leaving the shower on low would still have a significant cost. any viable thoughts ladies and gents?
Paul

« **Reply #12 on:** April 15, 2006, 03:29:12 pm »

Paul

My RO isn't on for too long really i use what water i have in my containers in the mornings when i refill at lunch time the RO is then turned on or the afternoon and it stays on until after tea time , say 6pm or so.
so its only on for 6 hrs or so, so heating water with something like an old shower may not consume to much power

« **Reply #13 on:** April 15, 2006, 04:06:03 pm »

Quote from: Chris Cottrell on April 15, 2006, 03:29:12 pm

so its only on for 6 hrs or so, so heating water with something like an old shower may not consume to much power

Most older showers are 6-7KW, so that would work out pretty expensive. If you're paying 10p per unit then for 6 hours it would cost about 4.50 per day, and at 5 days a week for 50weeks a year ( that gives you a whole 2 wks off !!) would cost over 1200 a year. But on the plus side the pump in the shower might boost your water pressure!!
Tim

« **Reply #14 on:** April 15, 2006, 04:12:00 pm »

my psi is ok its 110

so no problem there

« **Reply #15 on:** April 15, 2006, 04:18:10 pm »

I have a 100gpd from ro~man and it takes me 36 hrs to fill a 700litre tank up. Now i dont no wheather this is good or bad but when its full i get a whole week out of it and then top up again at the weekend. $:-\$

« **Reply #16 on:** April 15, 2006, 04:21:48 pm »

I forgot to say that my pumped 200gpd ro-man system fills my 420L water butt up in 14Hrs.

Tim

« **Reply #17 on:** April 15, 2006, 04:27:42 pm »

mind u cost depends on 6-7kw of useage and a shower can get pretty hot so i think u would turn it down a tad and u would still be looking at one third of cost still 400 sobs though. 700 ltr fill up over 36 hrs not bad 100gal = 456 litres + 50% nearly 700 litres!
only things that poss would make it quicker more filters as a kit from ro man higher pressure and warmer input water. 200gpd or 900 ltrs poss slightly lower than might be expected water temp might be very low?
paul

« **Reply #18 on:** April 15, 2006, 04:48:03 pm »

Thanks for the reply Paul, like i said i was unsure if it was quick or slow but i just turn it on and just let it fill but i do check with the tds metre on a regular basis as its filling. Thanks Ronaldo.

« **Reply #19 on:** April 16, 2006, 08:30:10 am »

we used to have good water pressure here but it looks as though it has been turned down by the water company.
I would guess its part of the water saving measures put in place here in the South. We already have hosepipe ban but interestingly the car washes are still operating.

« **Reply #20 on:** April 16, 2006, 10:06:30 am »

And i can guarantee Vince that a carwash will use more water in a day than any window cleaner ever does.

« **Reply #21 on:** April 16, 2006, 10:49:18 am »

I agree, these hand car washes that use pressure washers are "legal" because they pump the water.( some sort of legal loophole apparantly ) I would imagine a WFP is legal on the same basis.
They use massive amounts of water in a day.

Even so if we can cut down on how much water we waste it would be a good thing to do. Public spirited citizen and all that sort of stuff.