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DIY diesel heater.....
a900:
Ok so I’ve got it now. You will have more energy in your heating system with a bigger tank but it will take longer to run the pole before the coolant temp drops enough to kick the pump on compared to me. (So it will sit at idle longer) So loosing a larger amount of energy out the coolant loop which when the flow is stopped gives longer for the heater to get it to temp as a buffer.
But say an extra 5l water in the loop and say the idle is 20c lower than full power. Using the calculator it would take 0.11kw to heat that volume.
9.1 kw heater running at full power. So in 1 minute it could pridice heat energy at 9.1/60= 0.15kw per min.
So in my mind it would only extend the buffer time by a minute. How long do people get with their grippatank heaters before they shut off?
I’m quite sure tho that the heater runs at 7.6kw when the temps are higher already. So 0.12kw per min
Am I missing something?
As far as recirculation goes. I think your plan of the extra exchanger is the best. I’m planning to wire a DPDT relay that has the pump as the output. With the switched input coming from the controller and the second from a PWM board that runs the pump at minimum neeeed to keep the heater idling. At the same time it will also operate a normally closed solenoid valve on the output of the heat exchanger to recirculate water back to the main tank. I thought about how this could be temp controlled but I don’t know a way to switch the pump and solenoid back when I need flow out the pole automatically with this set up.
With another heat exchanger it could be wired to a temperature control circuit which would recongnise when the temp drops again through using the pole
I was trying to avoid an extra heat exchanger for packaging reasons 😂
a900:
As far as a recirculation pump for an additional heater ..
This would work https://m.banggood.com/DC-12V-5_5M-1000LH-Brushless-Motor-Submersible-Water-Pump-p-1118173.html?gmcCountry=GB¤cy=GBP&cur_warehouse=CN&createTmp=1&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cpc_union&utm_content=2zou&utm_campaign=ssc-gb-en-all&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiJnZo6-h3wIVZr7tCh3yUQZBEAQYAiABEgLWH_D_BwE
Spruce:
--- Quote from: a900 on December 15, 2018, 08:02:05 am ---As far as a recirculation pump for an additional heater ..
This would work https://m.banggood.com/DC-12V-5_5M-1000LH-Brushless-Motor-Submersible-Water-Pump-p-1118173.html?gmcCountry=GB¤cy=GBP&cur_warehouse=CN&createTmp=1&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cpc_union&utm_content=2zou&utm_campaign=ssc-gb-en-all&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiJnZo6-h3wIVZr7tCh3yUQZBEAQYAiABEgLWH_D_BwE
--- End quote ---
You could use any 12v water pump as long as it delivers enough 'head' to pump water back onto where your connector is, usually at the top of your tank. I thought of my Shurflo pump as it will handle 60 degrees and ticks all the other boxes as well.
It would also have to be able to be mounted securely. That pump linked to would need those suction cups replaced with something better.
Spruce:
--- Quote from: a900 on December 15, 2018, 07:57:28 am ---Ok so I’ve got it now. You will have more energy in your heating system with a bigger tank but it will take longer to run the pole before the coolant temp drops enough to kick the pump on compared to me. (So it will sit at idle longer) So loosing a larger amount of energy out the coolant loop which when the flow is stopped gives longer for the heater to get it to temp as a buffer.
But say an extra 5l water in the loop and say the idle is 20c lower than full power. Using the calculator it would take 0.11kw to heat that volume.
9.1 kw heater running at full power. So in 1 minute it could pridice heat energy at 9.1/60= 0.15kw per min.
So in my mind it would only extend the buffer time by a minute. How long do people get with their grippatank heaters before they shut off?
I’m quite sure tho that the heater runs at 7.6kw when the temps are higher already. So 0.12kw per min
Am I missing something?
As far as recirculation goes. I think your plan of the extra exchanger is the best. I’m planning to wire a DPDT relay that has the pump as the output. With the switched input coming from the controller and the second from a PWM board that runs the pump at minimum neeeed to keep the heater idling. At the same time it will also operate a normally closed solenoid valve on the output of the heat exchanger to recirculate water back to the main tank. I thought about how this could be temp controlled but I don’t know a way to switch the pump and solenoid back when I need flow out the pole automatically with this set up.
With another heat exchanger it could be wired to a temperature control circuit which would recongnise when the temp drops again through using the pole
I was trying to avoid an extra heat exchanger for packaging reasons 😂
--- End quote ---
Daz did say somewhere what flow setting he used on his Spring controller to keep the heater running.
Remember, the specs say that in reduced heat mode the heater is producing 1.8kw of heat. What they also don't tell you is that half the heat produced is wasted through the exhaust.
On my Thermo Top C 5.2kw heater, I managed to raise the temperature from 9 degrees to 35 degrees at a flow of 1.5lpm. According to the formula that required 2.65kw so the remaining heat was being lost elsewhere. That exhaust was very hot.
This wasn't a scientific experiment. Before I set up a test rig I could never understand why cleaners struggled with heat using a 5.2kw Thermo Top C as a heat source. According to the formula they should have been able to supply enough heat to provide warm water for 2 cleaners.
When I realised that what I thought would work on paper didn't work in practice, I shelved the idea.
P @ F:
Hey Spruce , do you have a link to this formula please ?
I can build and tinker for England but maths was never my strong point !
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