[P @ F]

Just seen a few power supplies and they are around 100 quid so it’s an expensive test , better off with new bat or 2 to be safe with split charge
Daz and NWH are right there , them heaters gobble power

[kevincoggan]

If anyone wants to buy my old heatwave there quiet welcome for the DIYer 650 you can take it away all new internals with a new frostat controller.

what makeof heater do you have matt?
How much?

hows your grippa hot system going matt?you had yours fitted roughly the same time as me....

Going well now Daz thanks. There were a few teething problems and in all honesty in hindsight it would've been more convenient to have bought brand new.

The only thing I find that isn't in keeping with others on here is to get those temperatures being shouted about it needs to run for a good hour in the morning. I dont know if that's because the kit is 4 years old , maybe because the battery might need replacing or because BillyBigBalls isn't telling the truth.  Thats with the return to tank in operation. Anyway, once up to heat its great, thanks.

[kevincoggan]

I meant to say do you have say a pure freedom built in box or a diy one?

[P @ F]

Don’t go blowing all the wonga  just yet though , test some other poor souls bat on it first as mentioned above.
Also don’t forget , I don’t have one , I am but a mere L5 scumbag 🤣

[Slacky]

Its a 110amp but up until recently has been relying on a split charge relay.

[Slacky]

Would putting an ampmeter on it help to indicate anything might be wonky?

[Jonny 87]

Would putting an ampmeter on it help to indicate anything might be wonky?

Defintiely. If it’s reading 12.3 volts or less it needs replaced, or possibly reconditioned. I have a Ctek charger and they can bring batteries to life in some cases.

My batteries never drop below 12.5. I have a split charge relay and I plug in every night.

[NWH]

Lol yeah I try the battery blimey,if you get a problem with these heaters first thing to check is the battery,you heat problem could well be the heat exchanger I had this same problem running fine loss of heat.
I changed the plate exchanger it was producing hotter water they also get blocked over time.

[P @ F]

Did the service look at the heat exchanger ?
Youtube is well worth looking at , only the other day I saw how to flush out exchangers and strip down and decoke a diesel heater , admitidly it was an air heater but exactly the same principal other than the possibility of gaskets that might need replacing upon rebuild

[NWH]

The chemicals people will tell you can use to clean out heat exchangers I’ve heard they can be damaging to them,it’s safer to just buy another I noticed a big difference in heat when I changed mine.

[NWH]

You should buy my 5kw heater 😂

[Slacky]

You should buy my 5kw heater 😂

You should say how much you want for it, Ive asked more than once on this thread.

[Slacky]

The reading when the system is running is 12.5 A btw.

[NWH]

That’s not fully charged 12-9 is fully charged does it go up above 12-5 at all during the the day when you’ve just parked up,my batteries will read 13-2 or above and then maybe drop down to 12-9 but not a lot lower that’s after and during using it for quiet a while and then back up to the higher reading when I’ve driven for another 10 mins or so.

[NWH]

I want 650 for it

[Slacky]

That’s not fully charged 12-9 is fully charged does it go up above 12-5 at all during the the day when you’ve just parked up,my batteries will read 13-2 or above and then maybe drop down to 12-9 but not a lot lower that’s after and during using it for quiet a while and then back up to the higher reading when I’ve driven for another 10 mins or so.

If I drive around it'll go up to 14+ but once the engine is stopped and its running independently it'll go down to 12.5 within a minute or two.

[dd]

As has already been suggested to you Slacky, you need 2 x 110amp batteries.

[P @ F]

That will happen , dont forget that the 12.5 you see is voltage with the draw of the heater running which is probably about right , I would not buy a battery yet as you might be ok , what you need is a pal with a battery you know to be tip top good and try that
Did you say it runs no different if the van is started ?

You can just use plain old water to clean the plate exchanger from your garden hose sprayer but it is a bit of a faff , but if you take it off and try it will become aparent you got poop in it right away .
It could just be a single gasket that has gone in the exchanger , thats all it takes to knacker one as they are factory sealed , you could have up to 16 plates on yours I think 

[Don Kee]

That’s not fully charged 12-9 is fully charged does it go up above 12-5 at all during the the day when you’ve just parked up,my batteries will read 13-2 or above and then maybe drop down to 12-9 but not a lot lower that’s after and during using it for quiet a while and then back up to the higher reading when I’ve driven for another 10 mins or so.

If I drive around it'll go up to 14+ but once the engine is stopped and its running independently it'll go down to 12.5 within a minute or two.

Its not as simple as NWH is making it sound, you’ll get different voltage readings depending if its on charge, under load etc...

I posted this table a while ago but it may help now.




A reading of 12.5 while its under load is ok. And bare in mind it takes a while to get a ‘true’ voltage reading after charge or load, as the battery needs time to settle.

(Added, the issue with voltage is that it only shows you the “real time” state of battery, what it wont tell you if how long the battery can hold charge.)

[P @ F]

As has already been suggested to you Slacky, you need 2 x 110amp batteries.

This is why idont own one , even with a shoe horn i couldnt get one in 
Let alone the batteries to run it