Carpet Cleaning Issues - Carpet construction, upholstery cleaning, stain removal, equipment, events, etc.
Posted by md_cleaning (md_cleaning), 8 February 2004Can someone tell me the best way to get the good results I have heard about on upholstery, this would be a big help.
Posted by ALEXDH (ALEXDH), 8 February 2004A few months ago Dynafoam (john) gave me some good advice.
Excellent pre-spray (subject to pre-test) - especially good for body contact soiling.
Lightly pre-spray (hot) & agitate with tampico brush, then extract.
Alternatively may be removed by terry toweling. I have used this method on antique tapestry which was too frail to survive extraction cleaning even through muslin. this was followed by a spray on B109 Fibre & fabric Rinse + more towel blotting. Results were most impressive on one particular piece - a hand embroydered settle completed in 1560 and as far as can be determined, not previously cleaned.
Definately a must-have!
As i say this is Johns
All the best
Posted by ALEXDH (ALEXDH), 8 February 2004Just to make sur we are talking about b108 fabric restorer by prochem above .
Posted by md_cleaning (md_cleaning), 8 February 2004Yes Alex b108 thats the one, have you ever used the foam to clean, as this is what I saw at Prochem, but did the 4 in 1 course so not much detail, am going on the full day course soon, so want to know the best option for good results.
Posted by Dynafoam (Dynafoam), 8 February 2004Dave,
The use of foam as a 'carrier' for a pre-treatment chemical is a way to limit the penetration depth, thereby reducing the risk of over-wetting.
There are several methods of generating the foam other than with specialised machines such as the Von Shraeder.
The easiest ways to use B108 it this manner is either:
a) To apply the product via a trigger or pump-up sprayer fitted with a foaming tip.
b) To mix B108 with a high-solids neutral shampoo such as Prochem B105 in a bucket. The foam is then created by whisking or better still by wetting and sqeezing a sponge. the resultant foam is then collected on a tampico or horse hair brush an appied to the upholstery.
When useing this method requires defoamer to be added to the waste tank of the HWE.
The latter method produces a more durable foam.
Posted by pre-vac_Nick (pre-vac_Nick), 8 February 2004I find the foam method with oxi brite really good on cotton prints.
B108 on its own for most other fabrics subject to testing, also i find on very weak or worn fabrics use a net curtain over the damaged area to stop it from ripping
Posted by Dynafoam (Dynafoam), 8 February 2004Nick,
I would add a note of caution as to the use of Oxbrite, in that it is a bleaching agent and old, faded prints may loose some colour and posibly some strenght. Also, since it has a fairly high pH, something like Fibrebuff should be added to the mix.
Protecting weak fabrics with a net curtain dureing extraction does make sense, however a muslin nappy gives better protection and less impeadment to the extraction tool.
Posted by Derek (Derek Bolton), 9 February 2004John
Protection netting....I use the black polyester mesh that is used for caravan fly screens... excellent ...and withstands chemical contamination too
Posted by Dynafoam (Dynafoam), 9 February 2004Derek,
Thanks, a great idea - the polyester mesh would be less absorbent than my muslin, and probably less obstructive to the 'blast effect' of the spray jet.
Posted by Eric (Eric), 18 February 2004Hi John you wrote,
mix B108 with a high-solids neutral shampoo such as Prochem B105 in a bucket.
What dilution rates are you using
Posted by Dynafoam (Dynafoam), 18 February 2004Eric,
Both products diluted at their standard strength, but with 'shared' water. This produces a creamier foam but the pH is still 9.
Posted by Nigel_W (Nigel_W), 18 February 2004John,
I may be missing the point a bit here - but why would anyone want to use a shampoo mixture in this day and age
By the way did you get my pm on the other unmentionable new board regarding the price of the Recoil.
Posted by Dynafoam (Dynafoam), 18 February 2004Hi Nigel,
The only point in adding the shampoo is that it helps hold the pre-treatment at fabric surface. This way be desireable due to substrate problems - indeed I have only used this approach on very dirty antique upholstery, for example with 100 years of penetrated soil sitting in horse-hair.
If I remember correctly, Ron Tilley used to promote the use of this approach as a 'turkish' clean.
Thanks for the PM, yes, the numbers are about what I expected. Have Emailed them a few minutes ago.
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